﻿<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?><rss version="2.0"><channel><title>Re-routing AC Idle up vacuum hose Gen 3 *Now with pictures*</title><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/tm.aspx?m=104898</link><description /><copyright>(c) MR2 AUSTRALIA</copyright><ttl>30</ttl><item><title>Re: Re-routing AC Idle up vacuum hose Gen 3 (nick12)</title><description>With vibration and age, even solder done well, can fatigue. Perhaps try these double heat shrink crimp connectors:&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Raychem Duraseal&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;a href="http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-terminal-kits/4089681/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" title="http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-terminal-kits/4089681/"&gt;http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-terminal-kits/4089681/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;which should outlast the original wire.&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/105479</link><pubDate>Mon, 03 Feb 2014 23:11:05 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Re-routing AC Idle up vacuum hose Gen 3 (MIDN1T3)</title><description>&lt;blockquote class="quote"&gt;&lt;span class="original"&gt;P E T E&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br/&gt;FYI - I'm not a fan of those crimp plugs. I have had them fail due to vibrations in the past. I'd recommend getting one of these wiring looms from Jaycar if you run into any trouble:&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SY4069" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" title="http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SY4069"&gt;http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SY4069&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Its cheap and worthwhile!&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;This also stops you from incorrectly plugging all the wires back in if you ever have to relocate the relay!&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Thanks PETE. &amp;nbsp;That does look like a good idea - I'm not a fan of using crimps either, prefer to solder and then heat shrink but in this case I had all of the materials at home and wanted to get it done fast.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;I'll definitely keep an eye on it.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/105472</link><pubDate>Mon, 03 Feb 2014 21:47:03 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Re-routing AC Idle up vacuum hose Gen 3 (P E T E)</title><description>FYI - I'm not a fan of those crimp plugs. I have had them fail due to vibrations in the past. I'd recommend getting one of these wiring looms from Jaycar if you run into any trouble:&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SY4069" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" title="http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SY4069"&gt;http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SY4069&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Its cheap and worthwhile!&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;This also stops you from incorrectly plugging all the wires back in if you ever have to relocate the relay!&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/105436</link><pubDate>Mon, 03 Feb 2014 09:37:10 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Re-routing AC Idle up vacuum hose Gen 3 (MIDN1T3)</title><description>All good mate. I&amp;#39;m getting the nipple welded onto my BOV joiner pipe this week so should all be back to normal. &lt;br&gt;Do the AC mod, took me around half an hour :)</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/105398</link><pubDate>Sat, 01 Feb 2014 22:45:23 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Re-routing AC Idle up vacuum hose Gen 3 (artymr2)</title><description>Apologies, I have given you a bum steer, the gen 3 in our car does have the nipple below the BOV. I have been playing with modifying a hot pipe but it is a gen 2, I must be getting old ....&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I have all the bits to do the AC mod, just haven&amp;#39;t had the time to do it. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Cheers</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/105393</link><pubDate>Sat, 01 Feb 2014 21:35:03 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Re-routing AC Idle up vacuum hose Gen 3 (MIDN1T3)</title><description>Ok, so with all the effort Mrskylighter went to helping me fix this problem, it's only right I put up pictures on this problem was fixed.&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;b&gt;Problem: &lt;/b&gt;After conversion from a NA to a 1995 Gen 3 3sgte, the AC idle up did not work properly due to a difference in electronics between the NA and Gen 3.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;With the AC on, the idle dropped and the engine struggled (when the idle should actually increase).&lt;li&gt;With the AC off, the idle increased and the engine revved slightly higher than it should.&lt;/ul&gt;Hence, the AC idle up was not working as it should.&lt;br/&gt;(The following is credited to Mrskylighter and will only work if the negative is being switched, not the positive.&amp;nbsp; Also, for some strange reason the red wire on the AC plug was actually negative, and the black and yellow was positive).&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;This is the AC idle up (VSV) plug.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;a href="https://imageshack.com/i/2h7u7cj" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" title="https://imageshack.com/i/2h7u7cj"&gt;&lt;img src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/89/7u7c.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;I cut the negative lead (in my case it was the red wire) and soldiered on about 200mm of wire to each side.&amp;nbsp; I kept the colours of the wires the same to avoid confusion.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;a href="https://imageshack.com/i/17hoquj" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" title="https://imageshack.com/i/17hoquj"&gt;&lt;img src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/43/hoqu.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;a href="https://imageshack.com/i/mhuvdrj" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" title="https://imageshack.com/i/mhuvdrj"&gt;&lt;img src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/809/uvdr.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Put some heat shrink on to cover up my dodgy soldiering haha.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;a href="https://imageshack.com/i/nm89sfj" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" title="https://imageshack.com/i/nm89sfj"&gt;&lt;img src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/850/89sf.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Crimped the other ends of the red wires with some male connectors.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;a href="https://imageshack.com/i/nlqsysj" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" title="https://imageshack.com/i/nlqsysj"&gt;&lt;img src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/849/qsys.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Stripped back some of the black and yellow wire (didn't cut) and soldiered on a piece of wire.&amp;nbsp; (Note: this was my positive lead.)&amp;nbsp; Couldn't heat shrink this one so I put some tape on.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;a href="https://imageshack.com/i/5hx7nej" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" title="https://imageshack.com/i/5hx7nej"&gt;&lt;img src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/197/x7ne.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Put a crimp on the end of that one and hooked them up to the 5 pin relay.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;a href="https://imageshack.com/i/my3iuaj" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" title="https://imageshack.com/i/my3iuaj"&gt;&lt;img src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/826/3iua.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;a href="https://imageshack.com/i/nhwjjsj" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" title="https://imageshack.com/i/nhwjjsj"&gt;&lt;img src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/845/wjjs.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;a href="https://imageshack.com/i/15r3fij" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" title="https://imageshack.com/i/15r3fij"&gt;&lt;img src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/41/r3fi.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Red wire, ecu end - terminal 86&lt;br/&gt;Red wire, plug end - terminal 30&lt;br/&gt;Black and yellow wire - terminal 85&lt;br/&gt;Earth lead to body - terminal 87a&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;I also put an earth lead on...you can see it bolted to the body on the right in the picture above.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Finally, made it look legit haha.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;a href="https://imageshack.com/i/euk09rj" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" title="https://imageshack.com/i/euk09rj"&gt;&lt;img src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/534/k09r.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;All works fine after plugging the AC idle up plug back in :)&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/105103</link><pubDate>Fri, 24 Jan 2014 23:20:25 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Re-routing AC Idle up vacuum hose Gen 3 (Mrskylighter)</title><description>Congrats! Glad it fixed your problem :)</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/105090</link><pubDate>Fri, 24 Jan 2014 20:04:03 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Re-routing AC Idle up vacuum hose Gen 3 (MIDN1T3)</title><description>Done!!! It works now like it should, idle increases when AC is turned on, then decreases when AC is off. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Nick, I did it pretty how you explained it above... I had a look at doing it in the boot near the ecu but was too much of a stuff around to find the right wires. &lt;br&gt;I&amp;#39;ll post up pictures tonight :) &lt;br&gt;Now I just need to get a nipple welded on the BOV joiner.</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/105086</link><pubDate>Fri, 24 Jan 2014 19:09:20 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Re-routing AC Idle up vacuum hose Gen 3 (Mrskylighter)</title><description>If you haven't started the wiring yet I would probably tackle it as follows.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Cut the neg/ground wire about 4-5cms back from the a/c plug and extend both sides of it&amp;nbsp;to the relay.&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Connect the wire which goes to the back to the plug to terminal 30 on the relay.&lt;li&gt;Connect the wire which comes from the ecu to terminal 86 which is the relay coil.&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Tap into the pos wire and run to the relay. (no need to cut through it completely)&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Connect the wire to terminal 85 which the other side of the relay coil.&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Make a short length of black cable up with a ring terminal on the end and connect this from a bolt on the body somewhere to terminal 87a on the relay.&lt;li&gt;Final step is to plug the a/c plug back into the a/c valve and see what happens.&lt;/ul&gt;I think a 5 pin relay, some wiring and assorted crimp plugs shouldn't cost much more than about $25-30 if you have none of it already.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/105082</link><pubDate>Fri, 24 Jan 2014 17:45:30 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Re-routing AC Idle up vacuum hose Gen 3 (MIDN1T3)</title><description>Sweet. Well then good to know the AC guys didn&amp;#39;t stuff things up.  Hopefully I&amp;#39;ve got some time tomorrow to give this a go. Chopping into the wiring is going to be the hard part haha</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/105068</link><pubDate>Fri, 24 Jan 2014 00:02:27 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Re-routing AC Idle up vacuum hose Gen 3 (Mrskylighter)</title><description>Yep you can do the fix at the ecu harness instead. That&amp;#39;s where I did it on mine.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;You just need to decide where you are going to chop into the wiring.</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/105067</link><pubDate>Thu, 23 Jan 2014 23:26:02 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Re-routing AC Idle up vacuum hose Gen 3 (artymr2)</title><description>Have the same idle issue after the gen3 swap, have not gotten around to sort it. I understand it&amp;#39;s the signal in the gen3 that the ecu receives is reversed.  Is it worth applying a similar fix above to the trigger wire to the ecu instead of the valve itself? I guess the final outcome will be the same. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Cheers</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/105066</link><pubDate>Thu, 23 Jan 2014 23:14:56 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Re-routing AC Idle up vacuum hose Gen 3 (Mrskylighter)</title><description>i believe the reason it happens is because the a/c amp in the early models puts out a different signal than the a/c amp in the later cars.&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;its the a/c amp that tells the ecu that he a/c is on via a/c pin on the ecu harness.&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;if you build the cheap relay above you will be sorted. this idle issue is not due to a fault, just a difference in electronics.&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/105065</link><pubDate>Thu, 23 Jan 2014 22:51:24 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Re-routing AC Idle up vacuum hose Gen 3 (MIDN1T3)</title><description>Thanks Nick, you are a legend. Really appreciate it. &lt;br&gt;Last question, when you had this same problem (AC idle up) on your car (and I&amp;#39;m guessing you did a conversion too), was it due to the conversion to gen 3 3sgte and not the AC amplifier? &lt;br&gt;Just making sure it&amp;#39;s not worth my while having a look at the AC amplifier.</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/105064</link><pubDate>Thu, 23 Jan 2014 22:42:02 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Re-routing AC Idle up vacuum hose Gen 3 (Mrskylighter)</title><description>Okay this circuit diagram&amp;nbsp;is the one you want to&amp;nbsp;reverse the neg/ground at the A/C idle up valve.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Once again happy for someone to critique my design to confirm it works or simplify it.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;a href="https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/download.axd?file=0;105061&amp;where=&amp;f=MR2 AC fix.jpg" target="_blank"&gt;&lt;img class="attachImg" src="https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/download.axd?file=0;105061&amp;where=&amp;f=MR2 AC fix.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;So with the a/c switched off in the car the neg/ground will not be sent to the&amp;nbsp;a/c valve as the relay will be energised.&lt;br/&gt;With the a/c on the relay will not be energised. As a result of the normally closed relay the neg/ground will be sent to the a/c valve which will cause it to operate.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;I will delete the earlier diagram so as not to confuse anyone who finds the thread in the future.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/105061</link><pubDate>Thu, 23 Jan 2014 18:33:23 GMT</pubDate></item></channel></rss>