﻿<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?><rss version="2.0"><channel><title>Removing the fuel filter and advancing ignition timing</title><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/tm.aspx?m=100509</link><description /><copyright>(c) MR2 AUSTRALIA</copyright><ttl>30</ttl><item><title>Re: Removing the fuel filter and advancing ignition timing (Gatesys SW20)</title><description>i will give that a go mate!! Cheers!&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/100558</link><pubDate>Mon, 14 Oct 2013 12:44:35 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Removing the fuel filter and advancing ignition timing (zmit)</title><description>^ second that trick. It's incredibly useful.&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/100556</link><pubDate>Mon, 14 Oct 2013 12:36:14 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Removing the fuel filter and advancing ignition timing (Reddtarga)</title><description>Normally these banjo bolts are very tight, and you need a 19mm open-end spanner underneath, and a 17mm for the top.&lt;br/&gt;Align the spanners so that you can &lt;b&gt;squeeze them together with both hands&lt;/b&gt; first to undo, then to tighten again later. You get a lot more leverage that way. &lt;br/&gt;(You can use the same technique when adjusting track rod lock-nuts).&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/100550</link><pubDate>Mon, 14 Oct 2013 10:24:18 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Removing the fuel filter and advancing ignition timing (artymr2)</title><description>Have you tried loading up the bolt and hitting the end of spanner with a hammer to crack it, it often works much better than just applying pressure trying to unbolt it.&amp;nbsp; Correct, it is a normal thread.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Re timing, you can advance it a bit ok if you run higher octane fuel.&amp;nbsp; Just keep a good ear out for any pinging and back of if you hear it.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Cheers&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/100511</link><pubDate>Sun, 13 Oct 2013 14:08:23 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Removing the fuel filter and advancing ignition timing (Gatesys SW20)</title><description>Guys I've been for the last two weekends trying to replace my fuel filter &lt;br&gt;I've got the bottom bolt cracked easily the top one looks to be a bit rounded off so I got a 17mm crows foot &lt;br&gt;It bites hard into the bolt but I can't crack it, it's that tight and I can't get any decent leverage where the filter is so I wedged a spanner against the firewall so the filter won't turn in the holder &lt;br&gt;And still nothing? &lt;br&gt;I am turning it counterclockwise I'm pretty certain it's not a reverse thread bolt &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I'm going to get some releasing stuff to soak it in &lt;br&gt;But anyone else have any ideas? &lt;br&gt;I've got a new bolt to go into fr Toyota once I get it out &lt;br&gt;I don't want pull the line out and drill it out as it's more of pita then I want to spend on the damn filter &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Also &lt;br&gt;I had the timing belt changed and it's at 9dehrees ignition timing/base timing &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Now the last mr2 I had was set to 13 degrees and was really responsive &lt;br&gt;Would that be ok because I've read they don't tend to start pinging until 15 degrees &lt;br&gt;If I wanted the extra little low ranger and mid could I safely advance it to 13</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/100509</link><pubDate>Sun, 13 Oct 2013 13:21:33 GMT</pubDate></item></channel></rss>