Johnscapris
Enthusiast
- Total Posts : 98
- Scores: 5
- Reward points: 5609
- Joined: 2011/08/01 11:02:49
- Location: Morayfield Qld Australia
- Status: offline
Lower Control Arms.
Capri / Escort lower control arms. I purchased a pair of non OEM lower control arms to suit Capri Mk1 and Escort Mk1.
The hole for the crossmember bolt has a diameter of 10.38mm. Ford OEM arms have a diameter of 9.66mm to suit the original 3/8 inch bolt. A difference in the non OEM of 0.72mm. To my knowledge All capris MK1 to Mk3 2.8i use the 3/8 bolt. What bolt does an Escort Mk2 use? I am at a loss to explain why the hole diameter is excessively oversized. Not desirable when trying to eliminate front end vibrations. Any one able to recommend a non OEM (will take OEM) arm that is standard Ford spec?
Regards
John
|
Paul Dunstan
Supporter
- Total Posts : 1378
- Scores: 35
- Reward points: 4790
- Joined: 2011/08/01 11:02:49
- Location: Adelaide SA Australia
- Status: offline
Re: Lower Control Arms.
2020/07/07 19:58:35
(permalink)
Mk2 Escort use the same 3/8 bolt.
|
BEE VEE
Scholar
- Total Posts : 1020
- Scores: 17
- Reward points: 3952
- Joined: 2014/01/02 15:53:02
- Location: MORNINGTON PENINSULA, melbourne
- Status: offline
Re: Lower Control Arms.
2020/07/07 23:42:00
(permalink)
Rather than waste these new arms, as theyre not cheap, use stainless steel shim to pack up the 0.72mm slop
"GOOD BETTER BEST: NEVER LET IT REST: UNTIL YOUR GOOD IS BETTER, AND YOUR BETTER, BEST" ( Furphy WW1 HORSE-DRAWN water-tank end-plates)
|
GTV6
Master
- Total Posts : 736
- Scores: 34
- Reward points: 5871
- Joined: 2011/08/01 11:02:49
- Location: Perth WA Australia
- Status: offline
Re: Lower Control Arms.
2020/07/08 01:45:29
(permalink)
Maybe try and find a suitable 13/32 bolt. Its very close to 10.38.
|
SFE
Aficionado
- Total Posts : 199
- Scores: 7
- Reward points: 5071
- Joined: 2011/08/01 11:02:49
- Location: melbourne vic Australia
- Status: offline
Re: Lower Control Arms.
2020/07/08 09:07:09
(permalink)
SS shim stack sounds like a less than desirable and fiddly fix to me. Can you press out the inner bushes (assuming they are rubber with bonded sleeve) and replace with proper size rubber LCA bushes or new urethane bushes with the correct size sleeve? A pair of the correct bushes are considerably cheaper than replacing your new lower control arms. SFE
post edited by SFE - 2020/07/12 15:08:03
|
Guest
Enthusiast
- Total Posts : 37
- Scores: 1
- Reward points: 0
- Joined: 2011/08/01 00:00:00
- Status: online
Re: Lower Control Arms.
2020/07/08 19:15:29
(permalink)
SFE, was watching this post and holding back from commenting. Just press out and put in some rubber or poly bushes. After all its the sleeve id which is the issue.
Mark
|
Johnscapris
Enthusiast
- Total Posts : 98
- Scores: 5
- Reward points: 5609
- Joined: 2011/08/01 11:02:49
- Location: Morayfield Qld Australia
- Status: offline
Re: Lower Control Arms.
2020/07/09 08:28:35
(permalink)
Thanks All,
Shimming is impracticable. Shim material would need to be high tensile steel and the correct thickness.
My bolt shop does not stock or are able to locate the 13/32 bolt. I could make a pair of bolts and then redrill crossmember. An option maybe, maybe not.
Poly/urathane bushes are rubbish and are a grossly inferior product to rubber and are therefore not an option.
The steel sleeve is bonded to the rubber so this steel sleeve would need to be laser removed then a new sleeve installed, costly.
Have purchased a number of rubber bush replacements that do not correctly fit the lower control arm eye.
Maybe the best option is to press in a high tensile sleeve and then hone to required finish clearance. Oh what a pain.
Has any one purchased non OEM arms with the correct 3/8 hole and if so , who is the manufacturer. Research tends to tell me almost all arms are made in Taiwan, and probably by the same manufacturer and hence may all have the same issue.
Thanks
John
|
Guest
Enthusiast
- Total Posts : 37
- Scores: 1
- Reward points: 0
- Joined: 2011/08/01 00:00:00
- Status: online
Re: Lower Control Arms.
2020/07/09 09:03:06
(permalink)
John,
I have Quinton Hazell (QH) arms I installed in the V6. They are new from Burtons. Perfect fit.
right hand part number; QSJ584RH, left hand; QSJ584LH
I have to disagree with you on the poly bushes being rubbish, they have their place in particular applications. However I have had some disintegrate over time (they were a light blue colour, I do not know manufacturer). I have heard similar stories from others.
|
900dukess
Aficionado
- Total Posts : 204
- Scores: 12
- Reward points: 4471
- Joined: 2011/08/01 11:02:49
- Status: offline
Re: Lower Control Arms.
2020/07/09 12:34:04
(permalink)
Hi all, Sorry BEEVEE I cant believe you would recommend shimming a suspension component like you mentioned.
As you used to always state "As a licensed RWC inspector" how could you possibly recommend that practice
|
cosworthfreak
Moderator
- Total Posts : 684
- Scores: 53
- Reward points: 5517
- Joined: 2011/08/01 11:02:49
- Location: Location
- Status: offline
Re: Lower Control Arms.
2020/07/09 13:39:43
(permalink)
I have some NOS non-OEM arms around somewhere which I can check if needed. Various brands.
|
martymexico
Deity
- Total Posts : 2440
- Scores: 285
- Reward points: 5832
- Joined: 2011/08/01 11:02:49
- Location: Adelaide Sth Aust Australia
- Status: offline
Re: Lower Control Arms.
2020/07/10 13:12:07
(permalink)
My 10c worth, drill the xm to match the new bolt size 10.38 , or use Nolathane inner bushes.
|
SFE
Aficionado
- Total Posts : 199
- Scores: 7
- Reward points: 5071
- Joined: 2011/08/01 11:02:49
- Location: melbourne vic Australia
- Status: offline
Re: Lower Control Arms.
2020/07/11 09:44:38
(permalink)
Why would you drill out the cross-member ? Sure it's the easiest fix but once done there's no easy way of going back to the 'correct' arms later on. Either exchange the arms for the correct ones/ get $ back and buy correct ones elsewhere or in my opinion the easiest solution would be to put the correct bushes in. Failing pale blue bushes would be the 'Noltec' branded ones I'm guessing. I've seen 5 sets of their adjustable top mounts turn to dust including my own. But I liked the floating design (independent camber & castor adjustment) with the little bit of urethane 'give' rather than being a completely rigid design. So I got mine recast with a proven urethane formulation. Just poor formulation by Noltec in the first place. I've got K-mac top mounts of similar design in my other car, still fine after 25+ years! SFE
post edited by SFE - 2020/07/12 15:06:19
|
PeterM
Master
- Total Posts : 933
- Scores: 34
- Reward points: 4984
- Joined: 2011/08/01 11:02:49
- Status: offline
Re: Lower Control Arms.
2020/07/15 20:12:02
(permalink)
Why would the 10.38mm diameter be a problem?
Aren't all suspension bolts, including the cross member bolts supposed to be tightened up tight when the car is back on the ground and suspension settled with the weight of the car on it?
Aren't the cross member walls designed to crush in against the inner control arm sleeve when the bolt is tightened?
The pivoting (up and down) action of the lower control arm is achieved with the flex in the rubber, not the bolt.
|
Jamman
Aficionado
- Total Posts : 49
- Scores: 6
- Reward points: 4943
- Joined: 2011/08/01 11:02:49
- Status: offline
Re: Lower Control Arms.
2020/07/15 21:26:24
(permalink)
Machine a section of steel with 3/8 hole, maybe ream the finish, loctite to a 3/8 rod and machine the OD to size and polish to fit the final size,, heat the sleeve to remove from the rod, then loctite into the bush. Probably no need to be hardened.
|