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Phil's Cortina

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kingcosworth
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RE: Phil's Cortina 2009/12/31 19:02:48 (permalink)
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Thanks for that Phil, I assume the specs they require are valve length and cam base circle. My cams have 2 different base circles, the exhaust is 2mm bigger than the inlet, do the shims that come with the followers come in a wide varity of thicknesses, or is that mm taken up by the stem spec?
Phil
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RE: Phil's Cortina 2009/12/31 19:32:19 (permalink)
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Hi Chris,

It all depends on the clearance between the valve tip and the cam lobe base circle as to which stem length you would order. The shims are sold seperately, I haven't purchased those yet as I haven't decided which valve stem diameter I will be using. If one base circle is smaller than the other you can bet that cam is a regrind rather than an original.

Cheers,

Phil.
kingcosworth
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RE: Phil's Cortina 2009/12/31 22:51:39 (permalink)
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Both the cams are mountune grinds, there just very different in figures, inlet's 12.25mm lift and exhaust is 9.2mm lift. They are a matching set. Due to the lift on the inlet, the base circle has been ground smaller so the lobe still clears the material around the follower. cool, so basically you order followers for standard valves, then measure for shims, thanks again for your info.

Phil
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RE: Phil's Cortina 2010/01/01 09:14:26 (permalink)
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No worries Chris, I bought the 17mm stud option for mine, I will be running close to std length valves. How close are both your cams to 37mm base circle?
danny m
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RE: Phil's Cortina 2010/01/01 10:14:13 (permalink)
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Phil I'm surprised they have cross drilled the journals or fitted plugs to the B/E lightening holes to act as a crap trap As far as knife edging it isn't as widely done anymore as it can create dramas with end thrust is not spot on and there doesn't seem to be the big chase to get the weight off as it's spinning in such a tight circumpherance as I know my cranks are a touch heavier than yours and it has no problems accelerating the weight as it's still repsonsive enough to pick the alternator brushes up and punch them out the back
What material did they use hopefully not some EN40 crap

Danny

PS Mark it has been nitrided just have a look at the satin grey finish on all the non ground surfaces
kingcosworth
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RE: Phil's Cortina 2010/01/01 12:52:08 (permalink)
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The Inlet is 36mm, and the exhaust is 39mm, and valves are standard with recut seats, so they'll sit a few thou higher.

Phil
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RE: Phil's Cortina 2010/01/01 14:11:18 (permalink)
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Hi Chris, that 39mm base circle might be to large for the 17mm stud lifters,you might be able to retip the exhaust valves and set the exhaust clearances that way without any shims,the inlet's should be fine with the appropriate shims.

Hi Danny, EN26 rings a bell. There is still a bit of work to be done to the crank before it goes in, I've given the instruction to do whatever is needed to achieve the result
danny m
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RE: Phil's Cortina 2010/01/01 16:56:11 (permalink)
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what's still left to do and what did they charge you (send me an sms if you want it quiet) as I know they aren't cheap and take time to get done as I had two done for mine with one sitting on a shelf in the garage awaiting the final grind whenever I need to use it. (most people look at and think it's a daggy crank as it's nitrided all over with nothing shiny
What clearances are you going to run and what rods

Danny
Luke
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RE: Phil's Cortina 2010/01/01 17:48:36 (permalink)
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quote:
Originally posted by Phil

This crank is fully counterweighted with 8 counterweights. The std crank although strong is only partially counterweighted with 4 counterweights



What are the advantages of this just a smoother motor?
Phil
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RE: Phil's Cortina 2010/01/01 18:29:35 (permalink)
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Hi Danny,

It was approx $3300 landed inc gst freight etc. It took about a month all up. Im using Argo I Beams and clearances will be left up to my friend doing the machine work. The crank is ground to the minimum factory tolerance on mains and bigends so there is room to move.

Hi Luke,

Yeah, it will be much smoother compared to a std engine. There are small gains in performance associated but the main reason for going with this crank is that I have always wanted to build a very nice combo covering virtually every aspect of the engine, making it as nice as I can...its more a luxury than a necessity. This build is my last investment in toys for a very long time so I want to make it everything I want it to be

Cheers,

Phil.
danny m
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RE: Phil's Cortina 2010/02/01 10:40:19 (permalink)
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What did yours end weighing?
Phil
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RE: Phil's Cortina 2010/02/01 10:43:40 (permalink)
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Im pretty sure it was around 535g to 565g. They were almost exactly 150g per rod lighter than my cossie rods.
pj
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RE: Phil's Cortina 2010/02/01 14:33:59 (permalink)
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Looking good Phil
I cant wate to see this car proform on the road and track.
Some people just dont get that this is your car.
This is one of the best all round cars
in oz and when it is done they will see.
Keep up the top work Phil
cortina-mk1
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RE: Phil's Cortina 2010/03/01 09:34:26 (permalink)
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argo rods were good enough for the rigolis fiat/lancia 4 cylinder

making around 800HP

never heard of any argo rod failure
Wozzah
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RE: Phil's Cortina 2010/03/01 13:31:35 (permalink)
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I am using Argo's in the N/A Pinto that I am building at the moment. I did a fair bit of research into them before I purchased them. The only ones I have heard of failing are a few V8 supertaxi items, but the failure was more due to the fact that they were simply removing too much material from the rod to get the weight down and they became unreliable. Argo weren't responsible for the failures, as they were under instruction from the engine builders to make them with a reduced recommended weight. I have no doubt there are better Rods available, but I think the Argo's are pretty good bang for buck.

Woz
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