wombat2509
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Engine Oil
Hi Guys
I have a Pinto in my Capri,I was wondering what would be a good oil to use, the engine has just been run in it is only used on weekends.
It has stock internals, double valve springs with a 26874 crow cam, with a 5 speed behind it.
John
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SaggaRS
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Re:Engine Oil
2012/08/21 22:33:10
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I heard somewhere that Penrite 30 was good for the older Ford engines.
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Flighter
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Re:Engine Oil
2012/08/21 23:10:38
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I've been pondering this myself recently. 20W-50 was original specification, but getting a good one in that exact viscosity might be tough, although I see Valvoline make several. There's Mobil 1 in 15W-50, although not readily available here apart from grey market importers from the USA like GL Lubricants (see eBay or their website). Shell make a semi-synthetic in 15W-50 that's about half the price called Helix HX7K that any Supercheap Auto would have, and it's probably better than the old standby Castrol GTX 20W-50. Really, I think just about any modern oil is superior to the stuff they were using 30 to 40 years ago, so if the viscosity range is right, I would expect it to be just fine.
post edited by Flighter - 2012/08/21 23:36:09
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RS 2000
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Re:Engine Oil
2012/08/21 23:33:42
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Whatever you use make sure it has full zinc content(good for all engines but a must with anything that has flat tappets etc). I use penrite in all my engines for that main reason. Others also have it but some oil companies have reduced zinc content to a minimal and non benifitial level. I use hpr10 10w50 and hpr15 15w60 for all my engines. Cheers
post edited by RS 2000 - 2012/08/21 23:41:58
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Flighter
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Re:Engine Oil
2012/08/21 23:58:34
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RS 2000
Whatever you use make sure it has full zinc content(good for all engines but a must with anything that has flat tappets etc).
Cheers
Agreed. Zinc was removed from oils to ensure they didn't ruin catalytic converters, but that doesn't apply to Pintos, whose camshaft followers really need it. Interestingly, this report suggests that 2 valve per cylinder engines are better off using a *lower* API spec oil, i.e. SL or lower (SN is the current highest standard). See " API Rating Backwards Compatibility and 2V engines" here: http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
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RS 2000
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Re:Engine Oil
2012/08/22 00:09:23
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Flighter
RS 2000
Whatever you use make sure it has full zinc content(good for all engines but a must with anything that has flat tappets etc).
Cheers
Agreed. Zinc was removed from oils to ensure they didn't ruin catalytic converters, but that doesn't apply to Pintos, whose camshaft followers really need it.
Interestingly, this report suggests that 2 valve per cylinder engines are better off using a *lower* API spec oil, i.e. SL or lower (SN is the current highest standard). See " API Rating Backwards Compatibility and 2V engines" here: http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
Thats because lower the api spec more chance you have to find some zinc in the oil. Its all about emissions.........
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Matt75
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Re:Engine Oil
2012/08/22 10:35:28
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Was reading this article the other day about the reduction of ZDDP ( Zinc dialkyl dithiophosphate)in current oils due to emmision laws and their effects on cam and follwer failure on flat tappet cams. http://www.racingheadservice.com/Information/ArticleDetails.asp?ID=-1228096506 The article is a little old but the points are still valid. +1 for Penrite though they still have a lot less Zinc then they used to. Cheers, Matt
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wombat2509
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Re:Engine Oil
2012/08/22 15:03:58
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Thanks for the replys
I will proberbly go Penrite. I have used Penrite for 12 years in my old Jackaroo with no problems the penrite site recomends the HPR 15 Full Synthethic SAE 15W-60 so I will go with that.
thanks
John
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fordsy
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Re:Engine Oil
2012/08/22 20:13:42
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Here's the advice from my engine builder who put my pinto bottom end together which i'll be taking over pretty much anyone else out there.
"oil needs to be a mineral based 20W/50, 25W/50 or 25W/60 NO synthetic can be used."
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Flighter
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Re:Engine Oil
2012/08/22 20:53:41
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fordsy
Here's the advice from my engine builder who put my pinto bottom end together which i'll be taking over pretty much anyone else out there.
"oil needs to be a mineral based 20W/50, 25W/50 or 25W/60 NO synthetic can be used."
Did he explain why?
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PeterM
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Re:Engine Oil
2012/08/22 20:56:00
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I was considering the reduced zinc content in oil a few weeks ago when I replaced the timing chain tensioner in my 1600 engine.
Would the reduced zinc cotent affect the wear of the timing chain tensioner pad (hard plastic)?
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ratta tat tat
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Re:Engine Oil
2012/08/22 21:06:52
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Matt75
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Re:Engine Oil
2012/08/22 21:22:21
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From here - oils with a CG and higher rating typically don't contain enough ZDDP, and the replacement friction modifiers don't work in highly loaded valve trains (generally older engines especially those with 2V design). If you try to compensate by adding a ZDDP additive into a newer oil it still might not work because of interactions with other additives in the oil.
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wombat2509
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Re:Engine Oil
2012/08/22 21:39:16
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and I thorght it was going to be easy 
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Escortpower
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Re:Engine Oil
2012/08/22 22:57:45
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fordsy
Here's the advice from my engine builder who put my pinto bottom end together which i'll be taking over pretty much anyone else out there.
"oil needs to be a mineral based 20W/50, 25W/50 or 25W/60 NO synthetic can be used."
+1 for that too. My engine builder said the same. Oh hang on, it was the same guy.  Without trying to sound like an ad for Castrol I use Edge 25W50. It's cheap and it's for old school cars. (replaced the old GP50 formula) http://castroledge.com.au/oils/25w-50
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