Pro tip, cut the threads off the strut as neat as you can and weld 3in below the shocker gland nut, thank me later !!

love the Superlights, nice offset.!
 
They have aged 1000% better then the old Dragways.
Those and Dragway Skoggs hey, were the wheel, unless you were in the Simmons camp.
Showing our age.
 
Its going to look good if you can leave the patina....

martymexico
Pro tip, cut the threads off the strut as neat as you can and weld 3in below the shocker gland nut, thank me later !!

Does that mean you weld them top and bottom? Is it for strength? I've only ever welded the bottoms and not worried about the tops.

Thanks. Shaun

deano
love the Superlights, nice offset.!
 
They have aged 1000% better then the old Dragways.
Those and Dragway Skoggs hey, were the wheel, unless you were in the Simmons camp.
Showing our age.
 
Its going to look good if you can leave the patina....

Yep, the dragway pros are very much an 80/90s wheel.

I'm planning on leaving as much patina as I can, however I'll see what it looks like after the body work and rust repairs. Lowered with fat wheels should look good.

So far nearly all the driveline and suspension components have been serviced and/or cleaned and painted.

It'll has new carpet/door trims etc, so nice to be inside, clean underneath, but hopefully ill not be afraid to drive and use it.

Shaun

Sorry, I didn't explain enough, was in a rush at work .
Start by removing the threaded platform by grinding off those welds you sunk in at the start. Once you've removed the threaded platform from the strut, clean the welds flat so the threads slip over and go lower, about 3inch lower and reweld it back on .
Doing this will give you that 3in your after without buying more shorter springs . If your still unsure what I mean, check my old Anglia thread (Marty's 62 anglebox twincam) it's on the first or second page showing the strut mod

As with welding the top, no it's not necessary and might also distort threads etc. All I do is run a bead of drip check around the top so it stops moisture getting in

Ahhh, yes understand now, repositioning the tube lower down.

Unfortunately it's not the threaded collar I've run out of adjustment on, it's clearance to the tyre, so can't drop the lower platforms any more.

Shaun.

Yeah that can happen sometimes, bit of a bugger there then

Had to walk away from the wagon for a while....
 
After the slight issue of the shocks paid for that were never in stock, and then the springs that weren't low enough, i ran into another problem.
 
Despite firing the engine up on the stand, and having previously cranked the motor over without issue, once I installed the rebuild engine in the bay I had issues.
 
The starter would make grinding/interference sound and be really sluggish to turn over. Like it misaligned?
Despite numerous attempts to sort the problem, I ended up pulling the engine and box as I was sick of fixing things in the engine bay.
 
I cant for the life of me work out what has changed? Maybe the bellhousing has slightly rotated around ever so slightly, just enough to clash???  I'm not sure. I had to walk away after a few attempts in vane.
 
Anyway, i'm keen to get back to it, so any help of suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Really keen to get it running now and get some motivation back.
 
Shaun.
 

nothing wrong with walking away for a while, I'm sure we've all done that.
Beats lighting a match under it.
 
sounds weird. Could it be anything electrical? 
If there was a difference between your test bed, and in the car?
Like a poor earth, low battery voltage,  perhaps battery could not supply enough current to drive the starter out far/fast enough or its not returning properly? 
 
At least you have your mojo back by the sounds Shaun.

Thanks for the encouragement.
Yep keen to get back on with it.

It was definitely a strange one.

The starter had previously worked fine in the car, and on the stand (with a different bellhousing) however once all bolted back in the car, it wouldn't work.

Definable mechanical and not electrical.

I even bought another starter with the same result.

My thoughts are that possibly the sandwich plate is slightly out of alignment causing the starter to bind as it has some play.

I'll separate the engine and box and have a look.

Will get it all lined up and started on the floor with the box before returning it too the engine bay this time.

It's a strange one.... but I'll get it sorted 👌

Really looking forward to having the mechanicals done, it running and drivable so I can start on the rust.

Shaun.