Yah the ability to stop heat transfer from the heater core in Aus is under rated I think. It was ok in England to have the core permanently plumbed. I just remember COOKING in the car during summer so I want to minimize heat transfer as much as possible.

So I've been doing some research on the double carb set-up and hurdles on getting it registered / passing emissions and I think there is a way to retain the charcoal canister and PCV set-up to make an engineer happy. I'm also starting to design my secondary wiring loom for things like the radio, speakers, in boot battery, electronic ignition etc.

Can the brains trust have a look over this diagram and see if I'm crazy or if this will actually work. Bear in mind I am going to tap intake runner #1 for the brake booster to reduce the pipe run for it and to free up the one on #4 for the PCV system. Either that or the other option is a balance pipe which gets done on a lot of kit cars for extra ability to plumb in vacuum features. Anyhow have a look and let me know what y'all think.


The upload compressed the picture - the red arrows say "airflow from PCV" and "To Intake Runner #4"


  

Good idea on the heater tap, I rebuilt my heater box in just the same way as you have and can still feel the heat wafting from it even when its on fresh air. It does get hot in there but thats the way its always been so I live with it.
The pollution diagram looks good to me, one thing with individual runners on dual carb manifolds is that you will have to take vacuum from each of them otherwise the valve on the crank vent will rattle as it open and shuts with each compression. I tried it with mine, one runner first, then combined it to another, better but still the same thing so I gave up and run the gauntlet now Generally over here the constabulary  are pretty lenient towards classics unless you're being a knob.  

That settles it then, I think I'll run a balance tube. Healeys run them from factory on triple carb set-ups so it's got me thinking why it's not really been done on escorts .

Yeah, I had a set of twin webers and the brakes were vac from only 1 runner and the brakes pulsed on idle which later became a split diaphragm and it went in the bin after that and never ran a booster again in that car

Interestingly enough I've had a cast about and this manifold from IKE for IDF downdraughts has the ports for a balance tube . Also it will make it easier to fit the catch can and I'll be able to keep the battery under the bonnet.

https://www.ikengineering.co.uk/product-page/pinto-manifold-twin-idf

Really interesting video from Penguin on the differences between sides and downs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTuwD_DnMiI&t=3s
 
 

Wow that is a good price for the mk2 heater matrix. Even though I already bought mine I checked and they don't seem to do MK1's? Anyway hope it goes well. I would pressure test it before fitting.
 
Your drawing looks okay to me Mark. Just make sure that nothing vents to atmosphere (ie from the rocker cover) .
 
In NSW the blue slip is where you generally get pulled up for a charcoal canister. If it was fitted OEM with that engine configuration then it generally has to be there.
Depending on the person doing the slip, seeing the canister in the engine bay will suffice as long as your not pumping sump vapours to atmosphere.
 
Also would I be correct in saying, keep an eye on the catch can in case it decides to fill with oil and send it to intake runner #4?
 
There you go with actually testing various setups on a dyno. Though he did not discuss jetting etc which you would have to assume is pretty close for all setups tested. Really not much in it. I listened twice just for that beautiful sound

Yeah Penguin has some really awesome videos on Pinto engines, basically all he does. Very knowledgeable.

And regarding the catch can - 100% yes, I'll need to check it every drive for the first month or so to get a gauge on how much oil is actually getting lost to the can - either that or I can be fancy and set up a one way drain valve solenoid to the sump that closes on ignition. That's just getting carried away though....  

a very friendly santa in Adelaide sent me a nifty little oil catch can, complete with site tube and connection fittings.
 
Another Penguin fan here too.
His poor test mule pinto has had a bit of a hard life but is still chugging away.

Gotta watch you Deano, sitting on Santa's knee too much.
I presume Marty that is?
 
Yep well you can't say the pinto is not run in.

Not much to update on this week cause I'm back at work to pay for all the parts I need .

Caliper spacers arrived but one of the O rings was no good so i'll need to pop to Pirtek or somewhere similar to grab a replacement. It bothers me that the supplier inner bolts are so long so i'll probably pop into the bolt place next door to Pirtek and see if I can get shorter ones. 

Yeah regarding the Downs vs Sides that 4 BHP could be made up with trumpets / gasket matching the inlet manifold or a few other little tricks to get better flow out the engine, the problem with the pinto engine has always been the heads ability to flow. Considering I need the valve seats machined in the cylinder head it would be remiss of me not to get bigger valves, so I've ordered new stainless ones that I can give to the machine shop when I drop the engine there.