Good suggestions Marty, I should have the left front wheel on by the weekend and I've got a nice big straight edge I can use to measure from the guards after getting it on the ground and bouncing it to settle everything.

I think 5mm adjustment on the pin would be enough, I went out to the garage after last night's post and tightened down the upper rear shackle nut and it looks like that shifted it in a little.

Do you have a pic of an offset pin?

Not off hand, it was just a bit of cut round bar with the pin hole size drilled close to the edge . It took place of the rubber locater ring bit which got cut off. USA do it a lot which is where I got the idea . I've even ovalled the locater hole in the diff platform but that was last ditch attempt.
If you can get away without any mods that would be fantastic.

Big question, are the arch lips rolled?

Aye the arches are rolled - also the floor is a mess right now, I need to roll the car out and give it a wash .

The round bar and hole makes sense - I chucked my old spring saddle rubber bushes out so if you have the OD / ID so i can pick some up in advance that would be great!

Big hole on the diff is 28mm and the leaf pin bolt size is 18mm. Hope this helps

It most definitely does - thanks mate!

Quick update, got a few more hours today and wrapped up installing the pedals and booster tower. I had to clean up and paint the brake rod and pivot bracket too as they were looking tired.
 

 
Then it was putting it together and getting it situated, the studs on the pedal box itself are a bit cocked so getting it in was a bit of a mission, got there in the end though. 
 

 

 
Getting the new brake rod boot situated in the firewall wasnt as bad as I thought it would be, just needed some elbow grease. Also the left front wheels studs got some time in the bath, they're ready to go on but the nut I was using to pull them in is getting a little notchy so I need to grab a new one from the fasteners before finishing them up.
 

Looks neat, yeah those PB studs seem to walk, I weld new bolts in there and do away with the studs. You only have 2 to line up, mk1 has 4.!

Handy hint, the brake booster gantry has the brake rod that holds to a pivot and some reason Ford team the pedal rod to the top hole on the pivot. If you swap it to the lower one and the mc rod to the upper you'll get slightly more progressive and easier braking. A simple no cost mod which I worked out in the 90s when my vac booster broke and never ran one since, just swapped the linkages over

I managed to get some time in the garage last night, getting closer to running some brake lines. Small update, decided to go with the booster Marty posted a few pages back - 6 inch hotrod booster, needed a little bit of modification to the grantry and master cylinder but managed to get it in place.


 
I had to elongate the holes on the MC - there is still a good amount of material to the outside - may add a pass of weld to the outside to give it a bit more meat and shape it back - undecided because the heat could make the mount brittle.
 

 
I had a look at swapping over the rods like you suggested Marty but I encountered a problem - the swing bracket only goes in one way and the plate blocks the rod from going to the back. If I flip the swing bracket around it doesn't sit flush on the stop so the pedal will be lower.


 
The biggest pain in the ass was adjusting the output rod on the booster, there isnt a lot of "feel" in it and the last thing you want is space inbetween the output rod and the cup on the master, will stuff up the pedal travel and if its pushing on it the brakes can drag.
 
Next up is taking the cylinder back off and giving it a lick of paint.

Your overtaking all of us on the build , jeez, happening quick now. I had to do a back step with my mk1 a little which I'll post soon .

I was pretty sure the swing pivot can be switched over, maybe just on mk1 and early mk2..? Sorry for misdirection
Getting the rod to match the MC was a pain on mine too measuring the depth and rod poke etc, tho I used a KB laser mc on the van ..a tiny bit of slack is ok. Don't weld the MC mounting, either JB weld a blob and shape it, didn't want heat to wreck seals etc.

right, I'm not posting any pics anymore, im done.
You guys are taking this perfection thing to the next  level. 
 
These are meant to be 25 years old + cars being done by blokes in sheds without paint booths and with secondhand bits. Now they are museum worthy.