Great video - I see where I messed up, I went up and over the parcel shelf instead of under along the top. Thanks Marty!

More done today, finished refurbing the door lock barrels and put the door handles into the car, not sure if I like these foamy door gaskets I got while I was in the UK last year, they're almost impossible to get straight along the top. Might see if I can spruce up the originals and put them back on.


 
Also get the stock loom in the engine bay in. One step closer!
 

 
Oh and the boot wiring/back of car is done now too - just didn't take a photo!

So it's a case of one step forward two back today unfortunately.

When putting the boot lock in I've managed to distort the panel a little when trying to get the retaining clip to seat - super annoyed at myself. Will need to get my PDR guy out to see if he can massage it flat or at least flatter.


 
You can see the distortions here, its worse on the top. Nothing more annoying that something that was completely avoidable.

On to the next drama, no idea how this happened but at some point the boot latch has snapped and someone has welded it up. The only reason I noticed was because I was cleaning it - not sure why I have never noticed it before. 
 

 

 
I think this has been like this for ages, because the pin that stopped the barrel from over rotating has been gone for a long time and the boot would still open when you turned the key, usually a few times around .

When I was fixing up the barrel I made a new pin from the shaft of a rivet and banged it in so the barrel only rotates 90 degrees like its supposed to. I also fixed up the return spring because that was popped out. What's happening now though is the paddle on the barrel that contacts the release on the latch (the welded part) doesn't contact, it's been welded in the wrong spot, I think it's lower and outward of where it needs to be - you can feel the barrel paddle tickling it at the end of it's rotation but not enough to release it.

Long story short I need a new latch - anyone got a spare that I could buy off them?

Bummer about the lock but I'm sure a good PDR guy would be able to straighten it up.
I'll be visiting a mate who has a shed load of parts next weekend so if you haven't found a latch by then I'll see if he's got any.
Oh and I went back to my original door handle gaskets aswell after fighting with the new ones. I had twice as many to do aswell being a sedan🤣

I have a few of the boot latches spare I could let one go to a good home ! Send a pm and we'll work it out

Which one ?

Thanks Marty! PM Sent!

Sorry Mark I was unable to add to the photos as well, i dont normally check the forum much on the weekend.
As usual, the boys came though anyway. 
Plus you dont want to see how my van wiring is, its not fit  for concourse purposes anyhow.
 
Now you have made your sacrifice to the reassembly god, it will be all cruisin from here forward.
If it makes you feel better, I felt your pain. It looks like we just fried the Accuspark on the weekend by reversing its polarity on the coil doing some diagnostics. One step back for sure.
 
Looking great as usual.

It's definitely not to concourse standard that's for sure!

I'm not enough of an anorak to sit there debating about the coating and length of some random bolt!

The goal is just to have a nice end result that I'm proud of, and if some bloke in England is upset because I put the wrong stripe on it he can kick rocks!

Well thanks to Marty the boot is now done and everything works as it should!
 

 

 
I still need to clean up with hardware a little but it opens and shuts and the lock works. Also the machine shop called to let me know the hubs were done so I went and grabbed them... I think I might have to take them back and get a bit more taken off, they look a bit close. 


 
Maybe another step down just to clear on that bottom lip.. or I could get the grinder out.... 

Also saw this deal come up for a battery tray from a local 4x4 place, $49 bucks so I did what any reasonable person would do and bought it. Just need to fit it on the weekend.


 

 
I'm planning on using a positive terminal from a VE commodore sedan or wagon, they have multiple fuses built in 300amp, 2 X60amp, and a 100amp which is perfect for the starter circuit, fuel pump, fans and main power circuits.