The crush tube is definitely gone then, its not in the old arms or with the old hardware either so I must have accidentally turfed em. If you've got the measurements of one it shouldn't be too hard to find a piece of tube to make them up. 

With the double-wide brackets it actually looks pretty straight forward to cut the mounting plate off then mod them to suit a standard sway bar. Got nothing to lose anyhow because I have the stock ones sitting right there. Time to do some geometry.. or well time for chatGPT to do some .

So - to change the standard castor positive by 2 degree, the mount needs to be picked off and welded 20mm forwards of the original sway bar mounting position. 




I have a science experiment to do tomorrow!

.... But when you lower the car 2in, you'll lose 1deg of caster... Apparently due to the pivot angle from the swaybar mount hinge swing..??
I'll get the dims tomorrow morn on the crush tube

Here's the crush tube sizes..

Awesome thanks Marty, will hunt one down tomorrow.

The science experiment was successful! Just headed out to dinner so will post up more photos later but here was the finished result.





Holy castor batman! When you push the arm up it does swing back a little and ends up looking pretty neutral to the strut top hole.

So here was the mod and how I measured it out - big shout out to Marty for pushing me in this direction, it worked out a treat.
 
Here is a close up of the mount before I touched it, as you can see the mount is too rearward and too outward from where a standard sway bar mounts - I'm sure they work well with the twin-cam sway bar but you're up the creek if you don't have one. So buyer beware, if you go down this path and buy online, not every listing states that these need that sway bar to work. Certainly not the listing I bought this kit from - I went back and double checked.


 
Ok so first step was to was to cut the plate off, and trimmed a lot of the excess off that mount plate. Then I used the standard mount as a template to get the correct bolt position and from there measured 20mm forward and 5mm inward and drilled new clearance holes and welded them up.



Then it was just a case of cleaning it all up and giving them a touch of paint and here is the final new positioning.


 
I lined up as central a shot as I could on the upper strut mount and drew some lines  in my very scientific method with completely zero inaccuracy you can see the change off the center line to the front.
 

 
That there is undeniably the most accurate wheel alignment you'll ever get this side of Perth . Next job tomorrow is to make up some crush tubes and get them in. 
 
 

Glad to have helped'd

nice work boys!
Selecting compatible parts is definately one part of the project I find a challenge. 
Add to the fact you may be buying overseas, and it can make for expensive mistakes pretty quickly.
 
Now you've got me wondering if I've put all of the front end togetehr correctly.!

deano
Now you've got me wondering if I've put all of the front end togetehr correctly.!

Does your cars steering feel planted at speed or "twitchy"? If it's twitchy you could have a castor issue. 

Sorry just realized you haven't drove it yet! Would be hard to tell in the driveway 

Depends how long your driveway is
 
I bought all the suspension components etc, for the track escort from MST.
I had to figure out the positioning on the chassis rails for the compression strut mounts and the control arm ends were too short and I couldn't get camber adjustment where it needed to be. After a day of scratching my head cause I thought I had fu&$ed up, I called them and they said in their Welsh brogue 'oh yeah we do an inch longer version' They are absolutely ****e at giving out any technical info which is frustrating when you are dropping some serious coin to them.
 
On the swaybar Mark. Generally they have a fair bit of thread on the ends which allow for some castor adjustment.
I'm not sure how much in terms of degrees? what is the angle between your red and blue line?