Those will look good all coated up. Just asking if your brake vac booster is ok, I have done a conversion using a generic hotrod 7in one which cost about $100 , they come in either black, chrome or gold anodised , I'll be using one in my mk1 soon since the original went in the bin and can't trust original over the years.

I'm getting the booster tower coated but I'm not sure if I'll use it yet, the powder coater did me a batch deal so just decided it get it freshened up too on the chance it gets retained.

I measured up for the maddat tiny booster and tesla E booster and they wont fit without a relief in the inner guard unfortunately, so if everything clears the manifold i'll use the stock booster and tower so will need to source a new booster, good shout on the hot rod one. 

Yeah it's pretty good when you get a batch deal, got that with a couple of buckets of car parts for anodising.
If you do go the gantry brake setup which obviously will be dictated by space, I did this swap on my yellow Lugger a long time ago. The master cylinder is Ford laser kB as the escort one was not worth repairing. Anodised hotrod booster next to Escort MK2 one

Marty, on your choice of master cylinder.
Is the KB Laser unit for drum & disc brake configuration?
I know with what is available aftermarket these days worrying about retro fitting/removing residual pressure valves etc is probably not worth the effort. Just buy a suitable mc?

The van was drum rear so the laser MC worked fine, it is about the same bore as escort, like datsun120y etc.
I have never had a problem when swapping to disk brake rear when using the same Escort or Cortina TF master cyl, I junk the portion valve where everything bunched into, just gotta find a spot for the low level light wire if the car has one (laser mc has it in the pot) , in place of it I install a inline bias valve to the rears, cause they will lock up first and need reducing. Never had a problem with binding or locking so the rear disk mc thing is a myth in my view.
Falcon xd,xf had a mc which works with both drum and disk. So again I don't understand the theory you need a disk mc , just my take on it all, not saying I'm correct tho have driven cars for years without problems

When you junk the stock pressure sensor valve did you just run individual lines to each front caliper?

Exactly, escort is the only car that has the sensor, Cortina, Capri, do not have it so my understanding is it's a safety item that doesn't work as intended.
The way I run the lines is split the fronts with a T junction as normal to each caliper and the rear (if disk converted) has an adjustable proportion valve in line, the rest is normal. Cortina TD-TF have a 3 line with 2x front outs so there's no T piece to split the line.

This pic is my van which has a Buick MC, can't remember the bore but works with Wilwood NDLs

PartTimeMK2
When you junk the stock pressure sensor valve did you just run individual lines to each front caliper?

Found a post started by Drewdog in April 2015 (Mk2 Escort brake proportioning valve), interesting topic. 

Got a bit of time messing about with the intercooler and radiator combo, It's sitting nice and I'm happy with the clearances, ended up having to slot the mounting holes to allow for proper adjustment to get it where it needed to be with no interference - last thing I want is it to rub on anything and blow a hole through it.

 
 
If possible could someone run out and measure from the lip of the slam panel to the engine side of the top radiator tank, just want to make sure I'm not eating too much into the engine bay - I have a measurement of 95mm and the thermo fans will take up a further 60ish mm with the shroud.


 

 
I also put channel rubbers all around the opening and thick felt tape on the bottom of the intercooler to protect it from friction/rubbing. I'm quite happy how solidly mounted it is, I was worried the mount points wouldn't be beefy enough but it isn't going anywhere.
 

 
That's it for the intercooler as long as the measurements are good, it won't be coming back out. The rad on the other hand will need to be painted - as you can see it's a different sheen to the intercooler, that's due to some masking tape that was put on to protect it during the fab process pulling off the so called powder coated finish . 
 
Hopefully all my suspension bits will be done at the powder coater next week which means I can get stuck into the suspension!
 
 

Is this what you're after? 50mm from edge of slam panel to engine side of the rad, 100mm total with the factory shroud.
 

 
 
If I'm barking up the wrong tree mark what you'd like measured on a picture and I'll head back out to the garage👍
 
Good idea on the rubber trim to stop the rubbing, mine needed it too after having the stock radiator changed over to the three core. The rad was one of the best things I've done, it'll happily idle in traffic on a high 30's - low 40's day without the needle budging from its usual mark.