Yep tramp brackets are on the body and diff, the tramp rod on the left will need a heat up and adjust, its about 3 mm off sitting true but for the most part it's good to go. 

I'm looking at the blackline too, seems most people who have used it are happy with it. This isnt a track car build so see no need to get anything too ridiculous. 

Good lad ! As the UK RSs all had tramp bars, well every Escort did that was anything above a 1300gt got them .
Blackline was cheap a few years back, Matt Lewis was the best price with them and freight. My Orange MK2 has a quaife LSD and they are excellent, quiet and solid so the blackline should be very similar in performance. I used to do big roundabouts at a good speed without sliding and the plant it, the wheels will both fry up and the fun starts, in the 8yrs I drove my MK2 with the LSD I never pussied it, twisted splines, axle bearings and went thru 3 different ratios but ended liking the 3.77 most with the Pinto . Bent an axle housing after landing on a kurb , from then on I've box sectioned the housing so it doesn't do that again .

Mark, You staying with rubber bushes?

This is the list I have in my head.

- Nolathane for the rear leafs, tramps, front sway bar body mounts.
- Standard/Rubber leaf saddles.
- Gaz front and rear shocks.
- GPR4 rubber roller front strut top mounts.
- Nolathane front control arm bushes.

If it squeaks too much then I may put the standard rubber mounts back, from memory though it didn't make much noise at all with the nolathane bushes I had in it way back when, the only sound was from the knocking front right shocker .
 
Also... Hear me out... Youtube served a SuperFastMatt video to me around electric assisted brakes - namely using the Bosche Ibooster system... It sent me down a rabbit hole and I found this. I think this potentially would be an alternative solution for all of those brake woes.

I present to you the 2017 Honda CRV hybrid electric power brake booster.


 

 
Lok how compact it is! I think it would totally fit on the bulkhead and clear the inner strut tower, the master is a two pipe front/rear system and has a remote reservoir too. I'm pretty sure it would also clear the clutch cable.
 
They're cheapish, you can pick one up for like $170 USD (plus postage) and I think all they need is 12v+ 40amp power - 12v+ switched and a ground. They have all fancy CAN stuff like regenerative brakes etc but I think because it's brakes, they have to be able to work separately from those systems too in the event of a problem.
 
Who is willing to give it a try?? 
 
On further reading you also need to wire up the pedal travel sensor - the small four wire plug on the top - but there are plenty of pin outs on sites like EVCreate.

You have headed down a rabbit hole, while I'm usually up this type of fangled gadgetry, you have found a possible winner . Get it activated and you can become a trend setter like those who do the electric power steering setups.
My mk1 is just going to run a hotrod vac servo like my yellow van did.

As with neoprene bushes, yes fill the car with them except the inner track control arms bushes and maybe the outer, just keep the rubber in there as they're bought from eBay, Burton's etc . As I used to work in Quickco Escort heaven, we seen lots of inner neoprene bushes flogged out in no time, I put the reason down to the load on cornering and the angles the bush had to endure. If the XM had the inner control bolt at the angle the arm wants I think the bush could last some time longer. Rubber will outlast Nolathane by 10yrs , I have a mk1 with factory lower track arms and still has original rubber.
Handy hint, once you've installed the bushes in the rear, let the car at ride height or slightly lower before torquing down the bolts. Not sure if this is a thing for Escort but can't hurt!
Don't forget to get the alloy rack mounts $70 ish , they are excellent.
If buying Gaz fronts, and say RS you'll get one for Capri which are a little shorter so will need a packet of washers to bring up, they never had 2.0 regular escorts, or do my trick to cut the tube down. I'm giving to much info again.. just get Capri struts which rs had in UK anyways, then everything will work at it should Inc alloy hubs

martymexico
As I used to work in Quickco Escort heaven, we seen lots of inner neoprene bushes flogged out in no time, I put the reason down to the load on cornering and the angles the bush had to endure. 

Good information, I was on the fence about putting nolathanes in the LCAs, I'll stay with standard and call it good.

I thought I would tackle one of the last "dirty jobs" before the car comes back (which should be next week!) and cleaned up the diff center housing and get a coat of primer on it. The amount of gunk that came off this thing was insane. Had to pull out the trusty oven cleaner to get the worst of it off .



 
I'm not sure if ill paint it silver or black yet, I may do it the same color as the Type 9 extension housing. Also I need to order the rebuild kit, LSD center and new axle bearings. 

Nice work, must be pleasing ticking jobs off the list. Something I miss from building mine. Maybe its time to pull the Cortina out and finish that off...
 
My vote is black for the housing, I used one of the alloy ones and left it raw/ silver. Sticks out like a sore thumb against everything else powder coated black. If I ever have to pull it out again it'll be getting painted black.

Yeah I second the do it black, or metallic Black like a real glossy, even clear coated 2pk for that super shine. Rebuild kit, bearings and the crush tube, also look into longer crown bolts as the LSD mount are thicker taking away valuable thread space, I've not had one let go with short std bolts but it's a worry I had while track days and loon driving.
depends who you get the lsd from, they can sell the bearings and crush tube (get a couple) as cheap enough cause you never know if want to swap out ratios later..
Can't wait till the car is back for you to assemble