lowering blocks are not in the mix?

I try to never use blocks, just don't like them . A leaf reset is about $150 more than blocks and safer , reverse eye is also good for keeping some curve in the spring. I'll see where these sit, tho if too low I can put more curved leafs in to raise it, suppose having a shed load of springs I can tinker as needed.

Speaking of Tinker, I done a productive cad today, since I m doing diff stuff at the moment, I am unsure what rear brakes I'll be going with. I want to get this made up so when it's bolted in, that's it, done!
I can leave the drums on there but there's no fun in that so it's a disc conversion. My Anglia used Alfa rotors which were the same stud pattern but I had to machine the axle flange outer edge by a few mm so the hat clears, no big drama. Caliper was Honda S2000 but I'm going to use Focus mk1 rotors and possibly MK2 Focus calipers or Nissan S15 which can then use the standard escort handbrake cable . Which ever way I'll needs to be bolted so the rego mob don't complain, if it needs a check. So will run down that rabbit hole later.
What I did with the tinkercad site is make a bush for the handbrake rod, a few prototypes and got it just about spot on except the rod hole was measured from a mk1 thickness, 7.6mm but I then found a MK2 rod which is 10mm so it's just been updated and printing now.
I tried the first version for fit and it's snug, printed it in TPU so it's like the real rubber ones. There's no load on this, it's just to stop the bar rattling. If anyone wants one I'll send the file .
This is the first step, design it

Then move it to the slicer programme and adjust some settings like wall thickness etc

Print in TPU

Check fitment



Whether this will end up being used is for when I decide what brakes I'll be using

Cant wait to be part of the 3D printer gang, the ability to make your own parts and brackets is priceless. 

I feel the same about lowering blocks, I would never go more than a cm or two - more a shim than a block. I had a drivers leaf snap on me due to lowering blocks on a downshift, bringing the diff up higher in relation to the leaf increases the leverage and stress the diff has on spring. It can increase tramp too. 

Yeah, I had 2in blocks in my first car, mk1 Escort and the ride felt so loose it just amplifies the movements, you could push the back quarter and see the body move sideways over the wheels, I'm talking a few mm, not much but that's gotta be bad. Maybe I left in the rubber pads, dunno, 35yrs ago!
Only time I had a leaf snap is taking it to the spring shop for reverse eyes, phone call saying it broke in the furnace get us another, yikes 😬.

Single leaf parabolic springs are worth getting, I've used a set in my mk2 while the multi's were being done and the ride quality was easy better, no friction or added weight. Just acquired another set of new 146lbs MK2 singles for a later project maybe

Yesterday after helping a mate do an install of a new fangled radio with the GPS and back camera etc to his ute, I started making mountings for 6x9s in my mk1 project.
So I started with a length of stainless steel of about 0.7mm thick, it's thin but still strong enough to use for speakers.
Once I had the pattern of what I wanted I started to cut it with throat less shears and then some folding, hammering, shrinking, bead roller to get the shape required. Funny enough the second one was made in 90mins as to 4hrs with the first one !




Once they are securely mounted I have speaker spacers made from a 3D print file, I started at 8mm just to see how things will line up, if I need thicker it's as easy as making another ..

Busy couple of days in the shed on sanding the Rally Pack and getting those speaker pods to work. I ended up using rivnuts to mount the stainless plates and cap screws to hold in place, I did sika them down as well since sound vibes will prolly shake the bolts loose and since sika is also a glue, they won't be coming out without a fight !


The grey oval rings are 3D printed spacers
Once that was setting I moved to the diff housing since the 14mmx1.5 tap arrived in the mail along with a cheap magnet sump plug

Tapping the 5mm thick took a bit of strength to get started but was easy running after that

Fully fitted, I do have another low profile Allen head one coming so it won't dangle down so much

As mentioned in the last post, we were going flat chat on the Rally Pack bodywork flatting the primer down and today I've given the car another final light full coat so we can block it back with 600 grit then will be ready for it's factory yellow paint .




I haven't taken very many pics of this project but might do a retro thread later on it.

Jesus that thing is coming together fast!

I really like the use of the dead space for the speakers in the MK1 - it's a perfect spot for them really - might steal that idea for mine, was tossing up parcel shelf mounts but that would be so much cleaner.

Yeah we've had this project for about 2yrs now, this is how we got it, shows they didn't care about it ! Genuine mid 77 rally pack 2.0 with all matching numbers and still a 1 owner.



Yeah mate do the speaker thing in the cavity panel 👍

Moving along to today's job, I was given a MK2 heater bulkhead cover which was in ok but not great condition so I used super glue and glass woven matting to strengthen the broken repair area , plus the drain hole was in pieces. I used an old bit of brake line to tie the front parts together and used lots of heat glue with cardboard to fill gaps and holes with. After a few slops of body filler to get the part looking right . Later in the rvo I gave it a few layers of primer , Tomoro I'll sand it back and paint black 2pk then it'll sit for a few days before I take a mold from it. As it's a borrowed part I think they'll want a new glass one of I break theirs, will see..