martymexico
Hey Mark, door seals are all the wrong size thickness, ie generic. I have on occasions bent the weld seam inwards to release the squish spring effect, this is usually around the kick panel and dash. Another thing to try is pinch more holes so it lets the air out when the door is slammed, a few knife cuts or pin holes on the back edge sometimes helps.
Bailey channel is another thing that's annoying as the front part at the triangle window should be thinner but hard to find, if the usual stuff is used the window doesn't slide as easy as it should.

I not know much about Cossy stuff but thought the water pump be same as old pinno, maybe pulley height?
3 hundy$ is big money's..

Yes with the door seals I add a couple of small holes. I find that after  a while the new seals compress a bit where they should and the doors sit better.
The 4wd Cossie water pump is a different item from the 2wd/Pinto pump. It works with the 4wd thermostat assembly.
Pulley heights are the same. If you long stud the head, you then have to space the water pump so the impeller doesn't foul the front stud and then things get interesting.

Bonnet stops look good. Low profile
Marty, do some research on where you get the seals from.
I've gotten through Yesterford locally and they have been pretty good. Though some are still as you mention, generic Ford (rare spares) items.
MST are okay too. I got the inner and outer door belts from them as with the polycarb windows there is no front 1/4 so the belts need to be extra long to run along the whole window aperture. IMO they are the best from the UK.
As per my 4wd water pump, the Au dollar is down the dunny at the moment.

Too right Mark, its going to be hard to buy from Burtons,Motomech or the others for awhile.
Has anyone tried Palmside in Enzed?
 
Obviously the $Au to $NZ works in our way, but they pretty much source from the UK anyhow.
 
I've bought Kiwi boat stuff from across the ditch, and they are superior in alot of stuff.
The funny thing I find is looking on Trademe, as its full of aussie sellers.
 
Locally, I missed out on a good Ghia tacho dash today on FB for $100.00 otherwise finding parts locally is a big challenge.

Moons ago I sold a escort Pinto sump to a NZ guy, as they didn't have them except for rs alloy ones. I think their Trade Me is connected to ebuy .
Deano look in Gumtree for the dash. The last one I bought was for the van but the tach was seized and was still $90. If you get stuck, why not go those tachos from Ali or eBay?
I just found this on AliExpress:

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqpbS9p

My home made welding trolley decided to have a blow out and spat the tyre off, nearly toppled over so while the replacement argon bottle was being swapped I cut the all the casters off and saving the best 2 for the front. Spacing the front up 50mm to match the rear which were stolen from my old golf cart, back in the day these cart wheels had integrated bearings and axle, I just welded it on. While there I cut the frame and took the handle part and welded that on too!

Back to the car.. I'm using a mk1 Cortina bonnet release so I don't need to run a cable to inside the car. This is pics of the spring lock not quite lining up with the slam panel, if you look closer I have cut the rod and bent it to better it's purchase but I think it needs more action, once it closes and opens easy I'll weld the rod to make solid.




Once it's all set and works as it should I'll put a stainless plate on the top so it looks nice and stops scratches

Finally got the bonnet release spring lock to work nice, a bit of tweaking got it good.
Back to the drivers guard which had tight gaps up top and wide gaps along the bonnet line, spent most of yesterday rvo cutting and sanding edges to line up. Where the tape is at, is my next cut line to widen the gap a little more. There's still more wiggle room for final adjustments as required. I haven't got any of the bonnet support rubbers in yet so it's looking good as is, might be ordering 4x this week if I can't find any in my stockpile.

Another shed day sanding and filler, so won't be long on this, I was bouncing between my mk1 and the project rally pack which had a decent wallop on the rear quarter/side. I pushed and hammered most of it out and ran a few skims of filler to level it out. As I got close to saying that's it and primer time, the day was closing fast so enter the Deano roller system. Mixed the primer filler as I would for spray painting and just started to roller it on. I might have had a quiet laugh at Deano but now I'm converted, it's quiet, clean and precise , I used the regular furry rollers but I reckon either foam or short hair ones will be best. 2 maybe 3 coats of 2pk primer filler , it's not super flat but most will be sanded away to get shape. Also did the front guards on my mk1 while there was time to do so.
Need to ask Deano which is the better roller to use, tho I'll not be laying the top coat down this way , I'll spray it on as intended..





I'm still on track to paint the shell in about 2 weeks time so it's getting closer now

This morning's job was to make a plate which covers the striker panel. It's made of kitchen grade stainless but is only 0.6mm thick , it makes the area look way better... Don't worry about the bolts/washers, they'll be swapped during the build


I'll give the bonnet lock a sandblasting to clean it up..

kitchen grade?
Does that mean the front of your 2 door fridge now was an icemaker door cut out of it?
 
Oh, and it wasn't a quiet laugh, I could hear from all the way from SA!
But 'sallright,  I will add you and Dave's Garage as converts.
 
5mm mohair is what you want for best finish if you do want to go further.
Unipro or even Monarch from Sausage Warehouse work fine.
The foam rollers  ends up chunking off for me with 2 the pack. 

I think I bought a 60pk from Ali for 9buxs they are the longer fur ones but can give them a buzz cut no6 ! they are only for applying primer, not keen to roll on 2pk just yet..