Finally after a few days of flatting and going back over checking previous spots it's now all in primer, well the main shell is anyway. Even though the neighbors are good I don't want to spoil friendship so I did it in small bursts with pressure a bit lower than normal. I have installed roof vents fitted with bathroom fans and filter padding to absorb as much as possible and fitted a tarp to attempt to keep any paint overspray from exiting . I've seen old evap panels with fans and water running thru which is a future possibility.


I'm quite pleased so far with the lines and curves have come up. I'll see how good the engine bay comes up after a 240 and 600 dry sand and could possibly paint the colour maybe tomorrow arvo .. decided to go the bolt on tower brace instead of welding grp4 type brackets as engine choice/carbs limit using one. Even though I said bolt on ones are more looks than anything else I'll just follow the trend haha
Been on email with Deano and he knows I've been scouting for a English Wheel, Hare n Forbes finally went on sale and with a first order discount which virtually deleted the gst amount, got this big version for a smudge under $600 ..

Once built up I'll have a play and get the hang of it..I can see me watching more hotrod shows to understand the metal characteristics more.

Nice score on the wheel, we buy a lot of our kit for work through Hare n Forbes.
 
Excited to see how the paint comes up, the body and bay look great already. I must have missed it but when did you put the strengthening gussets on top of the rails in the engine bay?
 

Hi Mark thanks 👍
I think those gussets went on way early on in the build, page 1 or 2 of this thread. Easy to make at home, I use between 1.6 - 2mm and make them bigger than shop spec ones.
I'm an amateur painter , each car I do comes up just that little bit better each time . I did rub back the engine bay later in the day so painting will be early tomorrow . I'll try to get paint in the boot and interior exposed panels, see how I go for time..

Early this morning I dusted and tack ragged the engine bay then final check to get ready for paint. Three problem with engine bays is there's so many cavities and corners to take note of if it's been coated enough. I did a dusting coat first and waited 10 mins to go tacky then went 2x full coats , then sit back and enjoy the hard work !



Time permitting doing to boot or trunk I'll see if I can get the internal metal panels ready as well which includes the parcel shelf and pillars, I might do under the dash in color as well but the dash panel it's self will be black , I might do it in color too see what it's like first and if I don't it's easily painted black. I've still got to lightly mod the dash to accept the MK2 escort heater switch set and the switch cover and windscreen heater vents

nice! 
Good to see the car in primer, I bet you cant wait to get some topcoat on!
He he.
Thats a 'serious grey", mines a "wimpy grey"
Did you dampen down the garage floor first?
Homemade air fed respirator?
Empty the compressor tank drain.
 
Just wait for the neighbours to pop off down the shops, then bang on the coats.
Bolt on is fine I reckon. 
Or do what I did, order an MST one in week one and never plan to use sidedrafts....oh well.
Full Custom Ian is the go for english wheel demo's.
Go back about 12 months, when he just shifted sheds, and he was learning how to use the wheel, and explaining how best to get it to work. For all of his knoweldge, the wheel was a new skill, and he made some complex swoopy guards, MGA style.
 
Um, with all those apron holes in the front, where are you going to put the number plate? 
Maybe risk it, and do an old school bonnet sticker?

Ha
No I didn't wet down the floor, I hoovered the floor with the trusty shop vac then air compress what ever was left out the door.
Air feed scuba, not yet, though I have a thin hose with quick connections which I'm going to T piece and regulate down to a breathable rate direct into the mask so what I breath is from the tank but filtered by 4x water trap filters along the line from the compressor . However I've not had a problem with my regular 3M twin vent mask so I should be fine just with that.
Empty the tank prior to painting, no, I have a spring loaded valve that when pressured up it seals just like the regulator does and when pressure drops to about 12psi ( 4x4 sand ) it releases air and water into a small tub.
Number plate position will go in the 'correct' position which the front panel has a light recess below the slot vents, if you see the car up side down you can see the recess where the plate is screwed only at the top.

I'll give Ian custom a look..
There's a young guy who owns a panel shop in Vic and does the odd YT, the last one I seen he created a HQ Belmont full rear Q panel from the door to the taillight, into the boot and wheel arch, plenty of wheel work on that as the panel has silly out radius but tuck back and swoop shapes...If it was me I'd be having a brain blister..

Re: the drop sheet  buiding up static: I wonder if you could earth it?
 
How this for an aluminium hat theory:
Aluiminium foil area taped or folded a few times over a corner of the dropsheet then with a wire connected to the car frame and/or dolly.
Once dragged over the car and taped up, there shouldn't be any reason for it to generate static, maybe an extractor fan blowing over the top isnt helping. Ideally you'd want to ground out to the rotissory periodically as well, its probably the action of dragging the spray hose, the spraying itself plus your nylon jocks creating static.
 
 

Ahh, I think having the static collecting random dust is a good thing in a way, it stops it migrating to the part that could be painted.
Today I sanded the roof back again as I noticed some minor spots needing extra work, same with the rear panel but I'm prolly being picky now. I'm glad the color can be repainted over if I find something annoying. Primed the roof and some of the inner panels that needed work earlier on today.
Good news is the MK2 heater box will fit and the switch panel so tomorrow I'll be doing a little cut n fold so the switch will fit and the switch cover. I was going to slightly move it to the dash but decided against it as the dash vents will make it look lop sided.

My plan on painting the inside is I'll do the floor in silver which will go right up under the dash and to the back of the rear seats floorpan. Then all exposed metal like in the boot and including the dash panel (for now) will be in the outside body color, just hope I have enough color left in the tin !

Today was a mix of paint and welding, first was get a template of the MK2 heater hole and find centre plus make sure it's not to high to hit the dash top

Texta around template and check before the grinder comes out . I was going to trim 5mm under inside the line with the idea to fold the edge over like factory but once the trims are on nobody will see anyways

But before I cut the piece out I got my fglass dash top out to check for all clearances and as it works out the panel looks good with it there


Once the hole was smoothed back so it's not going to slice skin open I made up a couple of brackets and get prepped to weld in place

Once the brackets are in place I used a joggler to punch the plug holes for welding, clamped in place, as it doesn't need to be mega accurate as long as the switch panel holes will line up




After that was all done n dusted I moved to painting the floor. Silver makes a good reflector under the dash. A mate said to do it black but that's his answer to anything !

I think the thinners began reacting and dissolving the original rubber sealer, not really bothered as sound proofing and carpet will cover it, it's just good to know it's covered

Tomorrow I'll mask up the silver and paint the colour Inc the dash panel, of I like it it'll stay as is. I still need to slot the windscreen heater vent holes, I'll do them once I know the wiper arms and other stuff doesn't effect the pipes etc