Thanks Shaun, I chose a colour that hopefully won't date like modern pearl/metallic colours, and fits in the era of the car. The other colour was Hyundai N Performance Blue, glad I went this way..
Graphics, yes but not the everyday mk1 escort stripes we all see, however, my choice is on some mk1s

Yep agree, a period colour

Not too much going on, lots happening behind the scenes.
I did manage to get the drivers guard main part in glass today I won't show how it's done as I've already done that with the other guard.

Been off here a little while as nothing happening with the coup to be of any interest. With working on the rally pack here n there. My mate who we've gone halves on had been catching diseases and flu plus a heart scare so things have gone relatively slow.
I did get my mk1 focus fuel pump rectified and it's alive again
Also since I'm not really working much now I hope t can concentrate more on my car's when possible a lot more.
I am in the middle of building a CNC machine which will be invaluable to myself and fellow car enthusiast, not only small Ford's but any model and not only cars but other things that can use the products it makes. More on this when it's running in a month or so, been buying electronics and drivers etc so it's not far off being built, plenty of printing as well..

Goes to show, just a small amount of encouragement a few years ago with an old 3D printer, and we have created a monster!
:) 

Yeah, I still need to build that biggie 450x450 printer , I could fit a Pinto intake on it and build it in 1 piece once we've designed it. The Pinto manifold flange is about 420mm wide.
My recent 3d print for the toolbox was a tube straightener for brake lines, it uses skateboard bearings which are cheap on Ali , 20 for $7 .. if anyone wants one they are on Thingyverse to download and print , cheaper than buying one !

Bought $300 of SHS/RHS for the CNC project, I have about 70% of all the stuff now so I can get the main frame virtually completed. All the printed parts are finally done, the claim some big items will take up to a full day to build but I got it down to 13hrs without loss of strength.

I've been also tinkering with the ute again over the past few days, I also caught a stuffy head cold which all but going now, at least my neighbour 70mtr away could hear my sneezing, after a bunch of sneezes I got a " I heard that Marty" ! Suppose working in industry all my life you realise if the guy way over there can't hear you sneeze, you not good enough.
Back to the ute, long readers here will know I turbod the courier for fun, but it was more a problem with oil vapour and leaks so I just removed the lot but leaving my hand crafted exhaust manifold and the rising rate regulator. After refitting most of the stock parts back on again I went to make the exhaust header extention from the T3 turbo flange to the V band, luckily I had a few extra pieces spare from other builds that I used up, 1x T3 flange, 1x half v band and 2x 90deg elbow 2.5in SS which was fitted up and lightly trimmed before mig welding, after seeing Deano dry weld his pipes, I thought, yeah I can mimic that..
Here's the ute engine bay all undone to access 1 oil T piece


Here is the replace stainless pipe fitted after a water test for leaks

And this is it all back together, I'm not going swamping so don't require a snorkel

Went to crank it over and wouldn't fire, I checked the pressure gauge and wasn't moving, great, another fuel pump died so that got replaced today and it runs a lot smoother than with the turbo kit, I'm still finding the fuel pressure sweet spot, but for now it's on about 34psi which is about right I think, when turbo was on I had it at 41psi, any less the fuel wouldn't be high enough to compensate the pressure up to 1 bar

Love the ingenuity there, did it ever get tuned to run the snail or was it a case of pumping up the fuel pressure to see what happened? Love a backyard turbo job, tried it on a old 9n 1.4 polo once, it went well for like 30 minutes 

Haha thanks, I'm not sure about tuned as I followed others on YT but they were getting similar oil issues, the efi system kinda coped ok (pre OBD2) I can't tune or check so it's try n see. I did a 0 -100 in under 10sec seeing 17psi in 3rd got me worried the head might blow apart !!
Some things I needed to change was run on 98ron, and get colder plugs, plus closing in the static timing nearer to tdc .
It's back to nearly stock now and more reliable which I need over speed, until the k24 swap goes in..
Recently bought a Hondata intake, it's a knock off from a real one but I'll be modding it to suit and a super light flywheel with a USA Clutch Masters HD 6puk made for the Civic turbo so should be plenty bomb proof. running behind this a also overkill, a Navara D40 6sp connect that to a 4.0 V6 courier diff, I think it'll be a nice cruiser and mud slinger!


Unsure when I'll start this project and will consult engineer again as last time they said I can go up to 4.0 n/a .. I going that is their limit is cause in most other countries, Thailand, India, Africa and maybe NZ had the 4.0 V6 as standard option..

Thought I'd throw this one up on here as it is escort related but not my mk1.
So since I have a rally pack that's needing some welding repairs in the usual locations but this one has a leaky boot caused by those boot seal top corner rust holes , I've fixed the wheel well area but there's still the left rear arch back edge, weld on the front guard once it's in position and this part I'll show that's quite a large area but straight forward .
The boot floor flat panel was/is very brittle and finding a wrecking car these days with what you need is very rare .
To start with is measure the rusty area for repairs, the boot part in fixing is 600 x 500mm or there abouts. Next is obvious to mark out and location lines so it doesn't start shuffling.

Showing how bad the boot is there's no escaping for replacing a decent part
The ribs are done with the bead roller and a die set that I had to turn down in the lathe, the same dies will do the front floor panels too . I didn't take a pic but it's a C scalloped die with a domed one to create the rib shape.
I started the measurement at 1 side and rolled the rib into it then moved to the next one etc

If I just marked up all the ribs and done them, I was sure the last one would not line up which will cause a problem. Lining them up.
This is the finished but not finished panel , it'll need some minor tweaks as usual.

Underside which shows the ribs better

Holes for the plugs will be done once it's welded in place . Thickness of the sheet is about 0.9mm which is what the original panel is, being zinc coated it will last a very long time