Hi Mark thanks for the comment on the door card, just need to duplicate for the other side !
With the elec window winder I hope I can get the ratio to match the Escort throw. My plan is to use a spare door to get all the mountings and mods needed correct. I'll substitute the glass for a sheet of panel board to save weight and lessen any chance of the glass breaking. I was going to get the rear window lift motor from the Suzuki Swift as it's a simple central rail lift bar instead of the gantry I've got here .

Nice work Marty. they will be very cool in the build.
Marty's mayhem?
 
Yes working on the boat with the shipwright, he used a hot glue gun to put all the templates together. I had one snookered away and since I got the inspiration have been using it regularly.
 
Forgot how handy they are. We need a new boarding ladder for SA30 (Marine Rescue Boat). So since we are getting an aluminum fabricator to make one, I though whip one up out of timber as a template and I put it together in 5 minutes courtesy of my hot glue gun.

I'm not sure about the Suzuki but most modern cars have a auto-reverse sensor in the window motor to stop people from getting stuck in them and injured, if this is the case with the Suzuki part you've got I don't think you'll need to worry about it breaking or bending things. Probably best to check it outside the car, power it up in a vice with a long lever attached to the window motor output and see if when you stop it turning by hand it reverses back a little bit.

If so it should also have a top and bottom "learn" position, this is usually done by putting the window all the way up and then once its in the top position hold the switch up until you hear a click from the motor, you also need to do that at the bottom position too. That controls the movement otherwise the motor would just break the glass/bend the rods/shear a gear as the motor keeps trying to turn when you keep the switch pressed. It also saved on end switches/wiring that the REALLY old systems used.

This was pretty consistent across most cars I worked on when I was still in the auto game. Standard procedure to reset the power windows after changing a battery. The only thing is if it uses a CAN signal to a body control module to store those positions then it wont work, but if it's all on board the motor you're laughing.

Yes I will try the safety feature today, tho it's just a elec motor with wires coming directly from it and the swing arm gantry,I can't see any additional anythings . I have noticed the cogs have been used complete thru the range by the worn off nickel plating so maybe they go full swing and the stops are the end teeth..

Ahh bugger, sounds like if it had the feature it would be controlled through a control module then. Looking at the part closer I think you're on the money, would mean a fair bit of stuffing around to get ratios right.  

Yeah I'll be having fun getting it to match the windows drop distance..

Had a go at pulling dents out of the tank with the nail welder and slide puller, there was a good crease to test the tool out, it did a good job and I wasn't sure what I was doing ! Just remember to cut the nail off down low and linish the stub back flat cause of you just wiggle it loose it'll take a piece of the part it's fused to.


Spent some time yesterday on the other door card, getting it to match the opposite side was a bit tricky, it's now in grey primer and I'll have a go at splashing 2pk on it this week

Marty did you see the puller tool on Daves garage? It used copper pointed flags with a large hole in one end.
You load one into the zap gun and press it against the panel, and it spotwelds it in situ.
Do that 20 times, load the clamp puller over a bar through the holes, and tug away. It sounded ok, but Dave seemed to have many of the tags just drop off, not much area that they attach to. 
Your spot weld pins worked a treat.

Marty did you see the puller tool on Daves garage? It used copper pointed flags with a large hole in one end.
You load one into the zap gun and press it against the panel, and it spotwelds it in situ.
Do that 20 times, load the clamp puller over a bar through the holes, and tug away. It sounded ok, but Dave seemed to have many of the tags just drop off, not much area that they attach to. 
Your spot weld pins worked a treat.

I actually bought one a month back when he showed off the new tool. The price of his actual unit was nearly $300, but I bought the handheld gun that does the same thing for under $200 with 1000s of nails and the key looking pins with a group hook attachment plus washers for the puller , I think I posted a pic earlier on not long after I got it, works a treat 😁

Yeah sorry, was a few pages back.
 
I get mixed up between your "i've got one of those" list, and my "wish I had one of those" list.
Too many toys for you I reckon ...:)