Hi Mark
I see it used a lot in UK, but they need all the help they can get over there.
All I used was a rust guard rattle can, and where the welding will be I lightly sanded the local area so the welder gets current.
Once welding all the primer will burn back a slight bit, it's natural. Best defence is to spray primer one the welded area as best you can quickly after it's cooled down, or brush it on ..

Not too much happen during the week, had a few deliveries tho..
This grinder linnisher tool which came with a spare wheel

New headlights with pigtails in case my plugs are dodgy

2x cans of splatter guard for the arches


This is what I got did this rvo , grabbed this

Which magicked it's self into this

Tramp bracket replica, I'll do the other side tomorrow... Time permitting

there will be nothing Mrs Marty will be able to get you for under the tree at this rate.
 
I've seen all the replies about tramp bars, ok, maybe that should be on my list again as it sounds like a basic must have.
Dumb question because my head is somewhere else ATM,  but do the (std van) diffs normally have the needed end as std, or do the tabs have to have to be welded on also also? If its just the body end to be modded, I could do that with some info/dimensions.. I assume tramp bars and poly bushes are available?

I've seen all the replies about tramp bars, ok, maybe that should be on my list again as it sounds like a basic must have.
Dumb question because my head is somewhere else ATM,  but do the (std van) diffs normally have the needed end as std, or do the tabs have to have to be welded on also also? If its just the body end to be modded, I could do that with some info/dimensions.. I assume tramp bars and poly bushes are available?


Please correct me Marty, but I thought the tramp rods came off the leaf mounts or the like, there was no mounting on the axle housing? Any pics for someone who hasn't worked on a mk1 for eons.

Yes Deano, she has a hard time thinking of what to get me, I do say nothing is ok but still finds something good lol.
Mk2 Escort and van diffs all come with rear swaybar brackets welded on and in some cases they need cutting off as they're right where the tramp bkt goes located on the diff. From my history of installing these there is 2x types, the straight set for all sedans from late 73 (upright shocks) and dogleg set, this is for early mk1 and all vans ( unless you've gone turrets then either can be used). The reason is because the shocks get in the way but with turrets they are way outboard of the chassis and won't interfere.
If you order a set you'll need the dogleg set , this is the shape of the radius bar, banana ! Everything else in the kit is the same, you will need to weld on the axle bkts or take to a muffler shop, they'll do it if your not confident...a lot of stress get put thru them..

There is only one spot where the can go so it's very easy to install them, only drama is the fuel and brake lines will need slightly bending around them, no biggie..
Here is mine welded in place

I've never fully stitched them on as this isn't needed , and can cause the floor pan to rip.

Also treated the car to some seam welding while I was there, I've only done the inside rails for now

Thinking of enlarging the gearbox tunnel mainly cause I don't know what box I'll be using and the tunnel is a bit crinkled from some earlier life stack. I want the tunnel to be about auto tunnel size so I can get carpet to fit nice but will raise it up slightly so the motor can fit flatter


Tomorrow is Xmas Eve and we're having a getup here on the big day, I'm in charge of the pizza oven charcoal griller smoker and the pool of it's warm enough !

Hi Mark
I think the anti tramp bars your talking about are the ones we used in the 70s, 80s which bolted to the U shackle bolts and were forward facing along the leaf to the front bush, the theory is when the diff twists backwards (nose up) the front of the bar slams the leaf which reduces the tramping, if it ever worked or was for looks.
These tramp bars I'm installing are in the same family as Capri tramp bars, simple and effective but not 100%, maybe 70%. Some say to add a leaf but then the ride gets rougher, I personally prefer a softer rear setup than the front , my mk2 used to lift s front tyre often on undulating corners in the Adelaide hills, fun times..

Yep it all makes now Marty with what I've seen in bits and pieces over the years. I think the XA/B GT's had a similar setup?
 
Question. Is there any advantage in looking at Caltracs?
 
It has done my head in with the track car I'm building, not because I've wanted to work to any given theory or formulas, but I have spent much time calculating roll centres, instant centres, anti-squat (Arthur Mallock theory) etc, just so I can understand its effect.
 
In the end I think it will all boil down to getting it on the track and seeing what effect certain adjustments make. At least I will have a better idea about their influences on the cars dynamics.
 
Actually Arthur Mallock says in one of his papers, you can do all the calculations you like but getting it right on the road is all that matters.
 
Hope the SA weather is kinder to you than ours. Enjoy the day chef.
 
Mark

I had to look up caltrac to see what it's about lol, from some pics and dimensions it's a straight bar from the U shackles to the front bracket below the leaf bush. Obviously it must work as it's a standard thing in USA drag circles.. (pardon the pun)..
If your allowed by rules I'd go straight to a 5 or 6 link, you can still keep the leafs but will need to cut the front eye off and run a slipper bush kit... Similar to a trailer setup..
The caltrac won't be much good for rallying due to its hang down arrangement and work still require a panhard or watts link.

If you do go 4 link, there's kits in USA much cheaper and better than UK. USA uses DOM bar and better(bigger) heim joints, if they can handle 1000bhp muscle cars it's going to scoff at Escort power.!

Get the car on the track and work it from there.
Yep I knew someone who was all keyboard and built his car from that knowledge then punched a few lap times, then someone else went out in his car and blew 4sec of his times but also gave him pointers about his setup being blah blah including tyres etc.. Even I went out in his car and took 2 sec off his best, maybe he's a garbage driver as well as a keyboarder lol

Hoping everyone has a great Xmas and dittn eat too much, if you did it's a good excuse to work in the shed to burn off the excess pudding etc

Made the effort to hack away the old tunnel, it was crinkled and split apart so it's a no brainer to remove it and adjust it's width and height while here, first started grinding on the line and then pop the spot welds off

The tunnel removed

This is the hole it left behind

I started making the new tunnel in 3 pieces starting with the top, I bead rolled a squiggle as the original but bigger and longer. The sides were interesting to make, not just the shape but the curve as well they have a return edge for welding and also to create strength in the tunnel , also ran a couple of beads along the length each side for looks and more stuffiness. I might change the shape slightly yet, will see when it's all made..

Today I finalised the tunnel fitment and did some minor reshaping so it was wider on the top , I wanted the tunnel to replicate (loosely) an auto tunnel just so when I go to carpet it, it'll fit ok... not that carpet ever fits perfectly !!

This is the tunnel with the sides welded to the top and in for another test fit, since metal moves about from welding it's best to always check before moving to the next step

Done careful plug welding and light persuasion to bring the panels together , between the cleco's and Tek screws The new tunnel went in smoothly


It was also plug welded underneath

I have no idea where the gearstick is going to pop out as I'm not sure on engine/box combo yet