Got some shed time in today, arch time !
I did this side a little differently but still fitzee'd the panel on , this time I cut the arch excess off closer to the arch, as I reckon the panel will not buckle as much being a curve, my plan worked a treat !!

During progress welding

All tacked on place, then it was fully stitched

And then after a linnishing

The grinder started to misfire towards the end so I'm going to get another one soon. I checked the brushes and one was cactus so it's borrowed time now. I don't buy expensive grinders as they seem to last the same as cheap ones especially when using it for cutting fibreglass. The Ozito (never again) lasted about 7yrs so can't complain !!

A bit more work today on the outer part of the tub, I spent about 4 hrs on these , since I've got the hang of doing them from the ones on other side . Here's the first pic of the flat panel but with swages in and return edged..

This is the same part after some shrinking of the return edge, it took a few goes to get the panel to fit snug

And this is the part pinned in place

And the other part which connects up to it

Action shot from the rear of the boot


Not much more got done as I was checking on the misso and helping do painting in the house .
I noticed the rear panel I've saved for 15yrs had been damage and cut in half and part welded on by the panel shop many many years ago , I'll show pics of this repair during the week, it's a bit comical in a way but frustrating cause I've got to modify it one way or the other... Why me... Lol
Until the next epic installment...

thats a tall flange you shrunk down Marty.
Did our shrinker do that? (Havent got mine out of the box yet.)
Where is all the splatters on your tacking of the wheelarch?
I know, gas vs gasless etc.
 
Good progress. You have more patience than me Kemosabe.
4 Hours on the inners, is about 3.5 more than I would have done, but its easy to see where the time goes.
 
Watch out for that mean looking anvil, one slip and the Mrs Mexico would not be happy.
Another good week/weekends work.
 

Hehe Deano the flange I shrunk was the short return lip, about 15mm, when it shrinks(or stretches) it pulls the flat panel around with it and not needed any mods to the larger part .
Yeah the Anvil is a narsty bit of kit lol

Good news #1,
The grinder escaped a burial send-off after I found the spare set of brushes in my toolbox, yay 😁.

Good news #2,
I also found the metal turret cutouts from my orange mk1 Mex, they were hiding in the bubble arch shell in a glove box. More yays !!



Here is the rear panel, can anyone spot what's going on here ? It's going to be more cut n weld just to make it proper lol


Ok, if anybody would like these turret templates , let me know I can either send these or copy to cad and post off 👍

Whats the ground shiny section about on the rear panel?

That's where I suspected somethings up with the panel, some donkey eyed welding which holds the floor panel on, but that's not it, have a look at the number plate raised boss, there should be another or it should be blank. I'll get to this panel soon properly..

bugger me, it's like spot the difference where somethings been rubbed out.
Is there a patch covering this area, with the welding repairs you described, maybe shes taken a small push in the rear and they just cut the area out?
I was going to guess that it had a real dodgy towbar at one stage, and that was where they'd mounted it.
Stupid concept, but hey, anything goes. I bet the delete was where the plug connector was mounted. Sorted!

Keep going Marty, I'm catching up. (no not really)
 
Your thoughts on : Filler always goes on bare steel, then epoxy primer, or if its bare metal and no filler, etch prime and then epoxy? Seam sealer on bare metal, or do you primer then seamsealer?

First is etch primer to seal the metal from moisture.
Some say to put filler on bare metal but really it's fine to put on etch and primers as long as you have keyed the area to be fillered.
I've never put filler on bare metal cause filler is a sponge for moisture, if you wet rub the panel there will be moisture trapped and effectively rust out the panel.
I only dry sand filler and primers until the sealer coat, epoxy, is fully covered on the car.
Seam sealer can go on bare or primer, your only sealing gaps up, the seam sealer can be painted over.
As long as you've scratched up the area to be painted, you can go past etch and use epoxy over bare metal to seal the metal from rusting and filler on the primer. Did this on my blue van 10yrs ago and hasn't broken out in blisters or paint falling off..

This is going to cause arguments on how and what etc.
Etch is cheaper than epoxy and can be welded thru where as epoxy can't be welded thru. If I get the car grit blasted I always etch it asap then I can relax on working on it.