A pair of battery terminal lug crimpers turned up on FB..
I'd seen these commonly on Amazon for about $50, but they were only $25, and 2 minutes down the road.
They can give a rough outside to the finished crimp, as the selectable jaws dont mesh 100%, but for the price I figued they were worth a try.
 
I'm happy to say they crimped ok, That cable is just 50A 8AWG, for the alternator, but it came out pretty ok.

 
 
A bit more dodge was a pair of mudflaps I found online.
I figured every rally van has to have a pair of Sparco mudflaps right?
From the packaging I think they are legit, since its pretty much all in Italian, but for the price it would have been nice for the logo to be moulded in the material, not just DIY with a couple of stickers.

 
something else to go on after the rwc. 
For now, I'm still playing with the wiring loom.

I rewired the dash loom plugs to accomodate the sport dash instead of the more base van instruments. 
As it needs 1 additional wire to connect the tacho  to the coil, i'm 1 connector short.
 
Does anyone know if you can source these type of spring terminals from anywhere?
I think the chances might be slim. Otherwise, if there's a spare loom,  plug, or some pins we could rob, i'd be most greatful

 

Try this, you only need to switch wires about, not add any I'm pretty sure of..
https://www.fordforums.co...n-a-mk2-escort.122860/

Thought I had replied to your crimper post Deano, but it disappeared into the ether.
I have a good set given to me by a retired sparky mate.
They can be a bit ordinary on some terminals (some are thinner walled). I tend to go one size smaller on the tool setting and just ensure a good solid crimp. Its amazing what heat shrink hides.
 
With those spring type terminals, I will have a look at my box of old looms. Failing anyone having what you need maybe try a couple of the UK places who do all the repo looms etc?

https://youtu.be/npgqnv0w7Uo?si=XA04SAfh_1S4JHt2
You will need to tap into the coil neg wire for tach feed. I haven't done one in years, well since the yellow load lugger ..

I wish you dint need an extra wire, but the poverty van loom has 9 wires when you need to use 10, the extra being that neg signal wire, often green. If you hooked up an external gauge it would be a no brainer, but those types of connectors that swipe onto the dash membranes are unique. I found an old Mk1 look, but thats different too.
UK is a good idea, but I want everything yesterday of course, hopefully someone might have a bit of an old loom or plug lying around.
If a Mk1 loom or bits are usefull to anyone, let me know. It is crusty though.
 
Heatshrink is great.
Glue lined heat shrink is greater! and now my best friend.
We have Jaycar again, after the last one went up in smoke a few months ago.
 

it's been a few weeks, other life stuff has been getting in the way.
Marks suggestion of using the UK guys who make looms (www.autosparks.co.uk) was a good one.
They have the dash membrane spade terminals in stock, just they dont list them on the website as they are used inhouse.
 
Whilst Im waiting for that for the loom, I played with the headliner a little more.
It looks less like a Tontine, and a little more towards how it should:



It still needs a little tweeking in spots, then trimming on the edges, but i'm happy considering its the first headliner i've ever put in. Not to mention I had to make up the roof bows as well.
That Car builders spray adhesive is  a ripper, sticks really well yet you can still reposition it.
I underestimated the fumes though while spraying it in the van. Nearly felt like I was going to spew before tea, then watching MAFS it didnt make any sense. I was away with the faireys a little.

also, I found this guy on YT:
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i8mUEC-Kiko 
He's doing a Mk2 electric van, using the exact same plan as I had in mind, 'cept he's cleverer!.
 
Same Netgain Hyper 9 electric motor, same battery setup, existing gearbox etc.Dc-Dc converter, all sourced out of the US.
 
 
It's funny seeing someone else do your planned project exacly like you had imagined.
He's got the driveline in already by episode 4, and had solved a few issues like the coupler that I had stumbled with.
I'm not sure if I like the engine mount setup as there will be alot of torque, but it will be interesting to follow through.
If the brake booster and tower gets removed, 2 Tesla batteries will fit in the remaining underbonnet area, giving an easy 5 batteries all up.
Should be a little rocket.
 

Just watched the video where he mounts up the motor to the type-9 then drops it in. I love the project and how he's tackling it - really cool! 

I think he may have a problem with those engine mounts though, that thing is going to torque twist to the moon and id hate to see it do backflips in the engine bay. I would be tempted to run a mid-plate style mount back towards the firewall like this.
 
 

Agree on the mounting, that'll most likely twist with decent torque. As you say it'll be better mounted at the bulkhead with maybe a steady bar across the front if possible