Welcome back to Mandela effect parallel universe ..
I haven't actually lined up my guard as yet. All I can suggest is make the door gap right at the rear closing and then the guard is to line up with that.. if like me and you can still see some of the old original welds, just go back to them if the orig panel of going back on.
That closing panel you made is pretty good btw

I just had a cast through your project Deano, absolutely love the bubble guards. You can really see how far you've come in regards to metal/body work. Great stuff!

In regards to the stamped markings on the engine I think that's the big end bearing sizes - could be wrong though. 

Forgot to comment on the Recaro chairs, they look so close to the ones I have in my mk1 Escort van, mine came from an 80s Audi.
With mounting them I widened the standoffs at the front to match the Recaro runners and moved the back standoffs to where they sat when bolted to the chair , Tek screw them down first so they are straight ahead and not sideways donkey angle .
I can measure mine and take pics if needed, let me know..👍

Still forgetting to take photos...
It would have been nice to get one when the bonnet and doors were on. I did basically as you had suggested Marty, working from the door gap as on the Mk2 its a weld on job and essentially non adjustable, bar your bar method of course. As i'd done the drivers side already, and had the bonnet theoretically gaps to the scuttle vent, this passenger guard should have fallen in to place.
The spot weld cutter left a good set of rings behind in the inner guard, so that helped too.
 
Also, the affectionately named Yellow Peril 4 door had some new control arm bushes fitted, and finally a wheel alignment yesterday. It steers very nice now, better than the Capri and is fun to hoot around in again.
It has a few days of TAC cover note, so I can sort a couple more things out.
There's an all Ford Day again down here in Feb/March, so I might get it along to that to advertise for sale.
 

I saw in your van thread that Mark hard actually posted up a pic of, yep, the seats looked looked pretty similar Marty.
In hindsight, I prob should have refitted the seat raisers to the recro spacing, but they are totally  migged in now, and i'd destroy the floors getting them off again.
 
The floors got a second coat of epoxy on one side, jsut so I could give the neighbours a rest from days of panel beating and grinding. The shade is a custom Dulux, called "- oh you bast*rd the white epoxy is reacting with the previous etch prime and is now going black tinted but its is only to protect the floors, and has now tinted the tin but its ok the color is more off white and covers better anyhow-white"'

and a skim on the pillar

 
 
 
 

so dumb question, but do vans (1300 or 1600 maybe) have a different front anti rollbar setup to 2ltrs?
Am I missing a mounting plate like the 4 door has?
Not having pulled the van apart, Im not totally sure what''s missing or should be specced up going with the Pinto instead..
Here's what there (inc freshly painted rollbar in Marty Commodore met red)

 

and an example of mount plate for sale if thats needed. Whats there is 22mm.

 
 
 
 

That paint compatibility thing is a bitch but something you have get on top of. I've never had an issue with 1K etch primer under any 2Pac. But the name has a ring to it
Marty should have a clue re front roll bar. I've never seen anything different from the bolt on brackets the sedans have, but my one van was a lifetime ago.

That's a big name to scribble on the side of the paint tin !
The swaybar mounting bracket is the same as regular mk2, how you have it is fine . sizes are around the 19mm/20mm on lower spec cars, the 22mm is usually from an RS, 2.0 Rally pack or 2.0 Ghia on rare occasions .
Are you using the dive kit or going to sell it to me ? Not fussed, I can make my own in due course...

the paint used for inside the floor and under the arches was just Dulux single pack epoxy, their epoxy enamel which is what I had at hand brushable.
It wont get 2 packed over, I wanted to make sure it got brushed in all of the nooks and grannies.
Half the floor will be covered with deadener mats, but I'm glad its sealed up ok.
 
Sounds like I need a plate of some sort like in the pic for the sway bar to fit to, and not just have it bolted up as currently.
That's not mine mine, just what I found for sale.
 
Anti dive kit Marty? do I have one? If I do you are welcome to it. :) 
Is that what''s in that pic? if so, makes sense. It was just on FB page for sale.
The vans not going to shred tarmac, at least without being electric, so cruising with 1600 suspension will be fine to get started with and back on the road quicker.
 

The swaybar U clamps built direct to the bracket that's bolted to the body, make sure the bush seats correctly before you rattle gun them up snug.

I do have a spare dive kit made from aluminium, slightly bent from an accident my old boss had during the 1999 classic Adelaide in his BDA mk1. It's not something I'll use in a hurry as the threads have been pulled on some parts. Good for measurements to build my own..

Yup as long as you've sealed the floor and maybe leave out the drain plugs there shouldn't be a problem with the car rusting again in our lifetime!