Looking good Paul.

As I read through that last post, I thought I'd reply to you and suggest that you weld bolts into the pedal box to hold the M/C's rather than nuts, as it makes it much easier to work on when its under the dash and you are re-installing the M/C's for one reason or another, as they will locate themselves on the bolts and you then you just need to do up the nuts.

I see that you have already welded the nuts on however - too late to change?

Ash

Hi Ash.

Yes, I had thought about that and was also thinking welding in the bolts initially.

My only problem is that if my pedal height is not ideal (too high) I may need to either cut the push rods or space out the master cylinders. As I would rather space out the cylinders I may need longer studs. If welded in studs it makes this difficult as I cannot alter the length once welded in. I cannot have exceptionally long studs to accomodate this as they would foul the hose outlet's.

Easy solution[%] Put bolts through the nuts to form studs, they can be interchanged if different lengths are needed[;^)]

Hi Phil

I did think of that after posting above or also loctiting in studs etc.

Great minds think alike

Dont you love it when a plan comes together :)

OK, as I need to satisfy the requirement for a brake fail warning light I cannot have my current dual brake fluid reservoir set-up.

A visit to Upullit revealled a suitable dual chamber reservoir from a Mazda 323 An initial look at location and ease of installation is promising. I will have a play with locations and throw up some pics soon.

An annoying question no doubt but do you have a completion timeframe in mind yet?? Guess you have taken this long so no doubt its a case of whenever. Just looking forward to seeing it on the streets!!

quote:

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Originally posted by MK1_Oz

An annoying question no doubt but do you have a completion timeframe in mind yet?? Guess you have taken this long so no doubt its a case of whenever. Just looking forward to seeing it on the streets!!

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Ask my wife! [:(!]

Well - had some free time in the garage today

As promised - some pics of the remote reservoir I'm going with. Detailed view showing float with the magnet to operate the low fluid warning switch. As I cannot have a differential switch (as per the original braking system) as I'm running a dual master system - this is the only option. Some soapy water, small gravel (to clean inside) and it's come up like new




I'm looking at using the original bracket from the donor Mazda to position the reservoir adjacent to the drivers side bonnet hinge. I think I'll proably manufactiure a simple bracket to bolt it to the bonnet hinge mount.




I have reversed the position of the switch mechanism to easily allow the reservoir to mount the oposite way on the bracket to clear the switch wiring. It also positions the reservoir perfectly to have the hoses enter at 90 degrees to the bulkhead sheet metal. I will not have the hoses exit the cabin on the horizontal surface adjacent to the heater plenum (as per the usual dual reservoir set-up) but exit further up on the inclined area of fire wall (just below the recessed section in the pic below). I need to finalise the mounting, location and hose run prior to paint so I'm not drilling my freshly painted shell [:u].




Also finished welding up the pedal box and removing the side sections to allow clearance for the bias bar. I had to modify it slightly as I was not 100% happy with the alignment of the brake pedal axis to the master cylinders push rods. Ideally the master cylinder push rods should be perpendicular cylinder to the mounting face at the point of full application - mine were slightly below. All good now

All that's required is to give it a final sand blast @ work and off to the powder coaters. I will leave trimming the push rod lengths to correct the pedal height once time comes to mounting it in the car.










Plus - had a quote for the paint so I need to pull my finger out!

Warning - Technical content

Engineering requires the brake fluid reservoir to be able to supply the braking system with sufficient fluid during the full service period of the components. That is, as the pads wear the reservoir must be have enough fluid to allow for the piston extension and not run dry (actually must only use 75% of total volume).

Allowing 7mm pad wear (very conservative) my 4 brake callipers consume 88.71ml. My reservoir MUST be able to supply this and still retain a minimum of 25% of it's capacity. Therefore my replacement reservoir must have a minimum volume of 118.28ml. Good news - the Mazda 323 reservoir has a usable volume of approximately 150ml - I have that box ticked

Have had a re-think regarding the positioning of the brake fluid reservoir due to the lack of bonnet clearance in my original location.

Anyways, I'm not wanting to use flexible from the bottle through the panel work but would rather use 1/4" steel with bulk head fittings. I will only require the hose to join the steel pipe to the reservoir. Got some 1/4" copper from work as it's easier to form (and it's free ) although I will need to use steel for the final product. Here is my initial attempt although i need to find a decent bender to form the 180 turn into the fire wall rather than the double 90 shown.






I will use the original bottle mounting and weld brackets onto the bulkhead to support the reservoir in this location. I will need to provide a hole or maybe just run the wifing up from the engine bay to the low fluid switch - not sure yet. Either way I want ALL the holes etc finalised and drilled prior to paint!



I will then use flexible lines and banjo fittings to the individual master cylinders. The entry point for the lines (through the fire wall) from the reservoir is slightly higher than the master cylinder inlet's so that should not create a problem with trapping air etc.