quote:

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Originally posted by Paul Dunstan

If you're referring to the horizontal baffle below the inlet then yes. I'm assuming this is to have the incoming hot coolant more evenly distributed across the core. I was worried about this as the Zetec in and out are on the same side - but see it's sorted.

I wonder if all their rads have this?

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They only need it if the inlet and outlet are on the same side.
Was just making sure they did it the same as mine. Some people over look this.

Well done mate keep up the good work..

quote:

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Originally posted by Mickas

quote:

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Originally posted by Paul Dunstan

If you're referring to the horizontal baffle below the inlet then yes. I'm assuming this is to have the incoming hot coolant more evenly distributed across the core. I was worried about this as the Zetec in and out are on the same side - but see it's sorted.

I wonder if all their rads have this?

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They only need it if the inlet and outlet are on the same side.
Was just making sure they did it the same as mine. Some people over look this.

Well done mate keep up the good work..

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Yes, I'm very impressed with the Ralloy item.

Another small update.

My pedal box is taking shape and just waiting for the side sections to be re-cut as the profile cutter used the incorrect drawing file [:(!]

Anyway - 15 mins in the bender @ work tranformed my flat section into the master cylinder mounts



And fitted to the OEM pedal box. I still need to remove a portion of the side wall of the box (lightly scribed lines) to allow room for the balance bar to travel but I will do that once it's all welded.



I should have it finished next weekend

PS - I'm also looking for interest as I can supply the necessary sections for a DIY assembly or build up a complete Mk2 pedal box if anyone is interested. I will need to do this on an exchange basis with an OEM manual pedal box.

Kits will be supplied to suit your bias bar application but you will need to manufacture your own brake pedal to incorperate your chosen bas bar tube.

Completed assemblies will be supplied with a 7/16" Tilton bias bar. These bias bars are a little more expensive than some others but the superior build quality and appearance is more than worth the extra outlay IMHO.

Email if interested.

I like your engineering mate, tho i would use a hole saw to cut out the end of the slot and grind the section away before you do any welding of the frame. Just a few cents worth of advice

quote:

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Originally posted by martymexico

I like your engineering mate, tho i would use a hole saw to cut out the end of the slot and grind the section away before you do any welding of the frame. Just a few cents worth of advice

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Why[?]

Yes, a hole saw was my chosen method and then use my pneumatic hacksaw to finish removing the material.

Thanks for the tip Marty but I would have thought removing the material after welding would reduce the chances of distorting the original structure.......? I don't see why it will be more difficult once welded?

I would have thought removing the material after welding would reduce the chances of distorting the original structure.......? I don't see why it will be more difficult once welded?


Ditto.

I have built plenty of bias boxes and i cut all neccesary slots, holes, what have you, before welding. I dont find distortion a problem when taking time and selecting areas to weld. Each to their own i spose!!

Small steps at the moment [:I]

Looking at induction for the Zetec I need to retain the OEM intake manifold and have an enclosed filtration system. So, rather than spend money on a pod filter and then stuff around to make an enclosure I thought I might have some luck using a factory air box assembly. Plus, it will retain that overall OEM appearance I'm going for (initially).

An hour scouting around U-Pullit revealled this gem from a late model V6 Nissan Maxima



Even has a nice air horn and the ability to bolt an adapter to my Mondeo AFM.



The shape of the box is perfect for the way I need to mount the box to the AFM and also to provide maximum clearance from the exhaust manifold. The inlet to the airbox is also in a position to poke right through the front panel if I decide too. The mounts are also situated to allow it to mount to a flat surface not unlike the battery tray (although too high as in the pics).





As I also need an OEM ECU from a manual Mondeo, I managed to find one of these also. A very productive hour indeed!

Following on from above I recieved some 3" and 3.5" alloy tube to start mocking up my intake pipe work. I'm wanting to retain a factory appearance as much as possible although I'll need some improvising to allow all the parts to fit within the Escort engine bay.

Beginning with the stock Mondeo airbox I needed the original air flow meter (EFM) mount to mate to my Nissan airbox. A little cutting and filing I ended up going from a complete airbox to the single item required.





This then fits perfectly into a section of 3.5" alloy tube which will be cut down to join the EFM to the Nissan airbox.





The 3" alloy tube will be used with the original Mondeo inlet tube to joint the EFM and the Focus OEM inlet manifold. The top of the Nissan airbox is in the approximate position when eventually installed. I have also enlarged the exit of the Nissan airbox to accept the 3.5" alloy tube.





Below is where the 3.5" allow tube (pictured above) will be cut to size and join the aibox and the EFM.