I have a Escort MK2 RS2000 project and need some assistance with the coil wiring. The wiring and coil are standard and so is the distributor (non-electronic). The starter works fine and the engine fires up easily but won't run. I've done some research online and don't believe I'm getting the 12V across the coil when the starter is not cranking (ignition key in position 2). I have worked out that the negative terminal on the coil connects to the distributor. There are two wires from the wiring loom under the battery tray that I think I have wrong. Any pointers would be appreciated. I got the picture below from a Google search but I don't know which wire is the correct wire that goes from ignition position 2 to the positive terminal on the coil.
 

If you mean it "fires up" and roars into life as you start it but dies THE SECOND you let go of the key, your Ballast resistor is "fried" and it needs replacing. This is usually on Fords in the form of a "special" wire to the POS terminal of COIL, unless someone has installed a Ceramic Type in the Loom.
 
If problem is more serious...................
 
We'll assume it's a Bosch type starter with attached Solenoid and your car is still NEG earth..............................
get a test lite or volt meter on to one of those 2 wires you mentioned while key is off, with NEG/EARTH cable/wire of testlite/voltmeter on NEG Battery Terminal, and a known good battery is fully connected and terminals clean & tight. There should be no lite or voltage there at either of "your" 2 wires. If there is, do not use it/them. Now turn on ignition to first click and look for red IG lite on dash. See if one of those wires is 12v alive or lites up the test lamp. If it does, put test lite/volt meter somewhere you can see it while you go to key and turn to "start"........lite /12v must remain strong and constant, even after you let go and key wants to come back to "IGN on" resting position. If none of the wires do the above, you need to search for one in engine bay that does.
In the meantime, to prove Ignition system works, "hotwire" the car by ignoring the whole system as she stands, and run a new wire with 2 aligator clips from POS of Battery to POS or IGN post of COIL. Make sure cars in neutral & H/Brake on. If wiring is good to starter, turn key to start. If no joy, use a second new wire with clips to bridge small terminal(small wire can stay if it's there) at Starter Solenoid to large heavy cable at S/solenoid, quickly removing this wire from LARGE Solenoid terminal, or both. This will stop the starter whether engine starts or not (as normal). If engine still wont start, yell out. If it's now running and want to stop it, remove NEW little wire "No 1" from POS of Battery.  Any probs , yell out.
nb........NEVER let any live wire or 12 volt feed touch NEG or CB(contact breaker) side of COIL.....ever.

Hi BeeVee,
 
Thanks for your reply. Responses to some of your questions.

• Bosch starter - negative earth (original set up)
• Ignition lights (alternator and handbrake) 
• New Optima red top battery. All cables and fittings are new and clean.
• Volt meter test on the two wires under batter tray are both 0v when ignition is off. Ignition in 2 position (on) one wire has 1v and the other has 2v.
• Voltage on starter solenoid + terminal is 12V.

I need to follow up on the ballast resistor as I don't think I have one. The loom is not from the car originally but is from an original (very rusty) Escort MK2 RS2000 which I removed myself . I removed and replaced all the electrical tape and don't recall seeing any type of resistor. Any details on what I should be looking for would be appreciated. I have a couple of spare looms that I might look over to see what is there.
 
Might be time for expert help....
 
Thanks again.

What coil are you using? If it is a GT40 coil some have a resister built in to them ie GT40R. Mine is a later model 1980, came with a ceramic type ballast resistor which is attached to the coil terminal. Changed mine to a GT40r as I use an electronic distributor.  Len