Sorry, I can't add any useful info re what's involved with a 1600 to v6 swap.

I will say though that the pinto works well in a Capri and is a dead easy swap. If I was going to do an engine swap in mine though, it would be a Duratec.

My comment on matching numbers was just based on what I saw when I was looking for mine, and was about value not originality. Most had engine swaps and that was 20 something years ago.

If you had 4 restored cars all looking essentially the same the least valuable would be the 1600, then the converted V6, then the genuine V6, then the matching numbers V6 (but the premium for matching numbers will only be there if a collector is looking).

But I think that just like the property boom, the muscle car boom is over and car restortaion is back to being a money pit and passion, not an investment, so forget re-sale and build the car you want to drive.

The crazy prices certainly have settled down, but there are a few sellers who haven't noticed.[:0] Alot of these cars have had engine swaps over the years, and it's harder to find a matching car if you're looking for one specifically. When I re-read your comment, I get what you meant, so apologies for jumping the gun.

Cheers
Jamie

No apologies needed - its just a healthy exchange of different view points that hopefully will help Mark B build the car of his dreams.

Mine has matching numbers but I have modified other things so its not 100% original and I am about to commit what some consider the biggest sin of all - a colour change. But I dont care about orignality or re-sale, I just want it to look good and drive nice - if I ever get my front struts back in

Well said GTV6 ,end of the day its your car... What colour you thinking?

Thanks everyone for all the great responses. The topic of changing the original configuration of the car did create a great debate – should we change a car that is already perfect. It’s like why would a band get on old song they like keep the general structure but by adding a little of themselves, a faster beat louder cords – rerelease the song as their interpretation. It just shows that we are all individuals and like to express our individuality and different ways.
For me I have a great car that I believe needs a new colour a slightly faster beat and a lumpier note, I am not doing this build to impress others I am doing the build to make me happy. If others like what I have done and can be inspired by what I have done that would just be a free gift to you then.

Now to make the original question clearer.
I would really like to put a bigger faster engine into my Capri, not a race car but with some grunt ( preferably quicker than a stock Barina or hyundai excel ). I really don’t want to need engineering papers to get car registration.
I would really like to change the car to a manual, and was thinking of a 5 speed something to suite the engine – either 4 or 6 cylinder.


Calculation 1 = Buy 4 cylinder + $ for some more Hp ( to get close to v6 Hp ) + gearbox to suit, hope I don’t break diff when driving.
Calculation 2 = Buy V6 + $ rebuild ( no need for high performance parts ) + gearbox to suit, replace diff and cross member as to comply with rego.
Breaks will be upgraded to ventilated discs, suspension and shocks will be upgraded.

Other considerations – Upgrading a 4 to get 150 ish Hp will cost a lot – is it going to be close to a V6, How will the worked motor go with normal driving. A pretty standard rebuild on a V6 will be plenty of Hp and a lot of torque, is it going to be expensive and hard to find a cross member engine and diff. Will the V6 get over the pits without an engineering certificate.

I hope this makes sense – I really enjoyed all the posts and the Revivng;not restoring was very true.

Regards
Mark B

It seems to me from what is being said is that what you really want is a v6gt. It sounds painful but if a v6 is wanted then start off with the right base for the project, and move the green car to a good home.
A v6gt might cost a bit more to start with but rebuilding costs would be similar and value of finished car would be higher.
No engineer needed as all is standard, also no insurance problems.

Ok to convert a auto Mk1 capri to manual
To keep it simple I will refer to maintaing the 1600 kent engine.

Firstly this may be obvious you will need a gearbox.
There is a couple of options
1. Use a Capri Mk1 4 speed (note later escort are a differant gearbox with larger input spline for pressure plate and output shaft for tailshaft diameters), these will fit I will explain later.
Tailshaft required to suit, I think all the autos are a two piece tailsaft with a centre bearing, and the manual are a single piece tailshaft. Not sure if you can still use the auto tailshaft.
Flywheel to suit (the earlier 1600 kent flywheels have six bolt holes for the clutch pressure plate)
Spiggot bearing required for rear of crankshaft, you can but these new from Repco etc.
Clutch and pressure plate to suit the gearbox you use (later escort 4 speeds have a larger input shaft spline, and thus a differant clutch plate).
Pedal assembly will require modification for the clutch pedal. I am not sure if you need the complete pedal assembly from a mk1 capri or can just replace the brake pedal (auto brake pedal is wider than a manual one) and replace the shaft that the pedals pivot on from a manual pedal assembly to allow fitting of the clutch pedal).
Auto Mk1 capris have the locator in the firewall for the clutch cable unlike auto Escorts, so that is heaps easier.
Need a Clutch cable.
Not sure about the speedo cable, I have a feeling there is a slight difference between the auto and manual, regarding on how it is connected to the gearbox, but not 100% sure.
Modifying wiring to remove starter inhibator (the thing that prevents you starting a auto gearbox in gear, this easy just join the two wires together, also slight mod for reverse light wiring, lengthen wires to fit reverse light switch on manual gearbox.
Fit a centre consul, not neccessary put looks better in my opinon.
On mk1 auto capri's the battery is located on the drivers side, but the manual was located on the passanger side, so a new longer battery lead is required.
So it may be easier to grap a complete gearbox assembly inc clutch, flwwheel, tailshft from a donor vehicle.

2. Another common conversion, especially on Escorts is to fit a type 9 5 speed gearbox (one sold on ebay for about $800 the other day).
Below is a good link regarding these gearbox, but it is for conversion on a morgan but will give you any idea.

http://www.morganownersclub.com.au/gearbox_conversion.htm

I think the transmission tunnel will require modifying for the shifter, moving shifter hole rearward.

3. I am not sure about toyota 5 speed conversions, you can buy an adopter from dellow I think, + modify tailshaft, shifter, clutch etc etc.

Also here is a link to help you identify the differznt types of gearboxes.

http://www.burtonpower.com/technical_1/e2000_bullet_gearbox.aspx

Hay Mark. I've reading this and thought i might add my 2 cents. I like orignal cars and modified cars, i have the pleasure of owning a couple of capri's, two orignal v6 GT's, Two v4 GT's a 1600(shell) and a mk3 hatch. me I would preserve a car that it orignal ( ur car looks very tidy) one of my v6's has its orignal engine and is going to be restored as it left the showroom, but my other ( know as the banger) is modified. the bottom line is thats its ur car, and you should build it as you want it. wether you restore it or do a heart transplant, it up to you.
To do a v6 conversion to your car you will need, engine/box tailshaft diff. brake lines as the 4 cyl is different from the booster, pedal box. fuel tank( V6 is 3 gallons larger ) dash gauges, wiring, radiator, struts are the same but the springs are different, and bonnet( with a v6 you have to have the right bonnet)Exhaust and alot of othert little bits.
why not do as MUD(Cam) said and put a duratec or zedtec or even a b6 out of a mx5 in it. oldskool looks with new car driveability. Cheers Owen

Thanks 900dukess - I have had a look at my firewall and it has the locator for the clutch cable. The rest should be straight forward.
Thanks v4capmad - with the fuel tank and break lines I’m not trying to sell off my upgraded 1600 as an original V6GT I am just after a Capri that is nice to drive with a bit of power, I am also looking down the path of a Duratec or Zetec as they 2 will give me enough horses without having something like the Kent loaded up to race engine specs that doesn’t work great with normal traffic conditions.
Ztec or V6 I should just toss a coin – or wait and see what motor becomes available at a good price and then just run with it, either way it has got to be better than the 1600 auto.

Regards

Mark B