I have just measured my car from axle to axle and it seems to be 10mm shorter on one side.
It has taken a hit on the passenger side one time in the past.
When I refitted the front end and measured both sides I found passenger side appears 10 mm shorter, I am pretty sure that the rear is OK, The front looks all true but I know its not right.
for example when I fitted the engine & gearbox I couldnt get one of the mounts to line up. the gearbox mount is OK, one engine mount is good and one is about 10 mm out.
has anyone got any advice , I dont want to discrd the shell I have gone to far.
This must be a common problem for race cars surely.

Thanks
Emil

Mk1 or Mk2?

I have a scan of the chassis dimensions so you can double check the chassis pickup points if you want? If they're not within spec then it may explain your problem or it may just be the fact that it's a 1970's English Ford [:x)].

What are all the panel gaps, door alignment etc?

Your wheel base is only a guide to check out,
You need to find common points under the mid rail & floor pan area and meassure to the front, length first and then diagonals to different points to locate damged point,
I would say it is possible you have hit the gutter and the lower control arm area has bent the cross member and pulled the chassis section in at the same time,
All is fixable,
Jim

yep did some measurements. I have that scan of the mk1 dimensions.
will post some pics later in the week and remeasure.
to hot to go to the garage at the moment in Perth.
I am off to Adelaide for a couple of days. is it any cooler there ??
rgds
emil

quote:

---

Originally posted by viskoe

yep did some measurements. I have that scan of the mk1 dimensions.
will post some pics later in the week and remeasure.
to hot to go to the garage at the moment in Perth.
I am off to Adelaide for a couple of days. is it any cooler there ??
rgds
emil

---

Yep - pleaent mid 20's all week

OK I have been busy measuring up my car.
I know the problem but am unsure how to go about fixing it!

First I got a reference from the rear axle.




Then I dropped a plumbline down from the center of each strut tower.
Marked these points on the floor and used a laser to get a straight edge.







Passenger side measurement


Driver side measurement


The difference is 12 mm , This would explain the problems mounting my crossmember to the engine, as the passengers side would not bolt up to the engine by about 12 mm.

i could redrill the location of the front crossmember this would bring the front and rear axle in parrallel. However without moving the front strut top also I would have castor issues

If I redrill the crossmember passanger side I now have discrepencies with the front ARB mounts





I really need to figure a way to fix the damage that has occured behind the strut tower





If I check the locations of the strut towers left adn right i again find a 12 mm Difference.



in essense the front strut tower would need to move forward/be redrilled.


can anyone help with a solution? I dont want to pull the whole front end off and weld a new one on. I cant see what I should change to fix the problem?

TIA
Emil

The only way I can see to rectify without doing panel work would be to reposition the strut by using an ecentric upper mount (eg.http://www.k-mac.com/) to offset the top of the passengers side strut forward and repositioning the crossmember mount and ARB mount by a corresponding amount - not pretty but would get around doing panel work....

Cheers

James

James.
My original plan was to remount the crossmember to sort out front axle. I am using these adjustable mounts, Which should have enough adjustment to sort out castor.
I could repostion ARB but am wondering if adjustable roll bar would allow me to get corect adjustments.



Rgds
Emil

quote:

---

Originally posted by viskoe

James.
My original plan was to remount the crossmember to sort out front axle. I am using these adjustable mounts, Which should have enough adjustment to sort out castor.
I could repostion ARB but am wondering if adjustable roll bar would allow me to get corect adjustments.


Rgds
Emil

---

I don't think an adjustable roll bar would be the ideal solution in this instance - you would end up with different radius lengths on each side of the car.

by shortening the radius on the passengers side only you would be increasing the ARB resistance to flex on one side only - ie more force required to deflect the wheel up or down in relation to the effort to deflect the drivers side wheel up or down. This would be like having a stronger ARB on right hand turns (loading up the passengers side front) compared to turning left (loading up the drivers side front).

Note: for clarity I have purposely used an extreamely simplisitic approach and not delved too deeply into the physics of the ARB function and operation on the Escort chassis.

i didn't think it would be simple wrt to the arb.!
do i have to unpick half the car and reweld it.
rgds
emil