Love that book.
Built my engine around that book.
Did all the head porting following his.

Burtons have some good info on cams and tuning etc

http://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guides/tuning-guide-pages/ford-sohc-pinto-tuning-guide.html

Well the 520x seems to be great but, its going to be my daily so i think i will be going with a mild cam from crow cams, Power range of 2500-6500. its the best i think for me. ok so i need a new spray bar, new springs, oil seal and rocker arm( but do i just need one? or how many? you can get them from crow cams they are about 13 bucks each.

years ago frank lowndes built engines for me and the only cam used was a 520x.with 45s about 170hp est power 3500 -7200 .if want power from 3000 -6500 go for the 520 [no x] giving about 160hp. these are real figures not inflated

get the camshaft cross drilled - doesn't cost much (did't me) does away with spray bar and sqirts oil direcly to pad before striking.

ok, so the 520 is not going to be a pain to drive with everyday? is there going to be any head draft work needed? is just having standard insides of the engine going to stuff me when i put this cam in? so having it between 3000-6500 is that going to be a beach when it idles, Like will i have to keep it at a min rev or it will die? also will i have to rev upto 3000 before i take off or i will stall?

mine comes in at around 3200rpm and its abit of a prick in traffic but its fine mate you will just drive accordingly. you get used to it.

if you are running standard valves and or porting you are wasting your time with twin webers.38 dgas is the way to go for carby

well im not going crazy with the engine but this is what i hopeing to do....cam time with spray Bar, Linear Cam pulley, New Cambelt, water pump, Thermostat, Complete Gasket set, Have the Head skimmed, Valves checked and recut if Nescessary. Port the head and take all the Sharps out the chambers, Clean up all the flutes.
Ally Bottom Pulley.
For the Block Itself...Hmmm, New rings,polished Pistons,all Seals, Re-hone the Bores,New Con rod End Shells(if needed,Dould Go Steel Con rods as burton Have them), New Bearing Cap Shells (depending if they're Knakered), New Oil Feeder(or at least clean it out)
Then put it all back together.
Electronic Ignition is a MUST! lol, No pratting about with points and condensers. then Tune Time.
and Double Dowel the FlyWheel to Clutch,with a 3 or 6 plate Paddle.

but standard valves which means the head will not flow enough to make the best of the twin carbs.you will have to put in small chokes,mains which will make it expensive to set up and use a lot more fuel for no real gain as well as making the car less drivable.your two choices as i see it are either put big valves in 38/44 or us a 38/38 dgas.it doesnt matter what you do to bottom end or reco head,yes it will make it smoother and a little more power but will not utilise carbs to half of full available air flow.