...you are close to starting your car up for the first time after years of work on a complete nut and bolt restoration, and THAT"S when you discover you have a pin hole leak in your otherwise pristine fuel tank? Sometimes it really does feel like one step forward and two steps back. I might try some of that KBS fuel tank sealer, although I'm going to have to be careful not to clog the ventilation pipes that cross cross the top of the tank.

.............you're not Robinson Crusoe there matey!................it's a real bitch of a downer !
 
Nowhere near the downer my son's mate created who did the same thing and IGNORED THE OIL WARNING LIGHT on his Subaru, after a know-it-all mate told him "she'll be right, probably a software glitch", instead of ringing me or any other friend who would have told him TURN OFF THE ENGINE AND INVESTIGATE!...........nuh; none of that.........a few kms later = one seized Subaru hard-to-find engine which had to be shipped from NSW to VIC.........a total of $6500.00 "hard lesson" hopefully learned.......but I wonder.
 
On this subject, don't you just love the new modern car that has NO OIL PRESSURE GUAGE, NO TEMPERATURE GUAGE AND NO OIL IDIOT LIGHT ? ..........the electronic dash takes this responsibility to throw up a flag if needs be !  I know as a Mechanic of 40 years+ which system I'd prefer!........I fitted a separate-system 30 year old(nos) Speco OP Guage/sender to our "new" 2001 Prado V6 years ago just for peace of mind.......best thing I ever did, and still do to client's vehicles..............not rocket science........DO IT NOW!
Yet the makers of my chinese $400 Hi-Pressure Cleaner saw fit to install a device which cuts the ignition if the 4 stroke engine is down by 10% oil level in the sump !.............yet not one car, poverty pack or Aston Martin, to my knowledge sees fit to install this for even "level", let alone the more important lack of pressure (with a delay for start-up of course)...........just remembered.....Lancia and other Euro cars of the 70's had a "level warning" circuit incorporated in their dipstick !
 
Merry Christmas and Drive Safe every-one !
 
Bernie
 
Another tip; Run your auto trans lines thru a separate cooler and NOT the Radiator.....on ANY new or old car; water/coolant in the A/Trans = immediate disaster and new/rebuild tranny needed.

What car is it? Really the only fix is welding it up properly. But normally if it because of rust then their will be many more spots to work on so a new tank is best. Obviously go through the thorough cleaning measures before welding. You can just use a remote tank in the meantime to test an run the motor.

It's a drop tank in a Mk2 Escort. The tank was pretty much spotless inside with just a few small dents on the outside. It had never leaked before, so I was surprised to see a tiny one of maybe a drop a minute after I put some fuel in it yesterday. I expect a dash of solder over the top is all that it would take to fix it, but while the tank is out again, I figure I'll seal it up all over with the KBS stuff.

If it's just a pin hole then weld or braze it. Solder won't stick with out a lot of hassle with tinning etc. If you pull the tank out and can't braze weld yourself take it to someone who can. It would end up cheaper and better. Radiator repairers normally also do petrol tanks. My tanks cost $125 to fix with a complete clean inside. That was from Riverstone radiators and a great job. Then I know it's done well also. They clean the inside with an acid exposing everything pressure test then weld. Peace of mind when it comes to fuel.