To the well seasoned mechanics here,,

I've had quotes around $2000-$2400 to do a performance rebuild with my 1600 Kent, that's not including a cam kit. And was wanting an idea how much it would cost to do it myself, and which things would need to be left to the pro's, like machining, honing, balancing etc. Also the essential tools needed (I have the basic stuff incl a 3/8 torque wrench). I'm guessing by the time I buy the right tools, parts, lubricants etc, it would be just as much as the shop.

I'de say you probably wouldn't come out with too much difference cash wise for the first build, and if you're only doing one build, pay a pro. Personally I took the plan 'B' approach and spent the cash on some good tools and hunted around for suppliers of quality parts and a good machine shop. Don't scrimp, pay good money for good work and most guys will be prepared to share the knowledge.

If you take the DIY route find a good mentor, it'll save loads of time and ensure you do it right. At the end of it you will;

a) Be more confident with spanners
b) Have a great toolkit of quality tools that should last a lifetime
c) Save $$$$ on the next build/rebuild
d) Understand your motor better
e) Have a massive sense of pride in your project
f) Be more game to push the modification boundaries in getting more hp/performance out of the car

Take a look at 'Sterling's' project. I take my hat of the the guy. Some of the stuff he's done isn't my cup of tea but what blows me away is his approach. He seems to be doing most of himself and is turning out great results. Occasionally going a couple of steps backwards but most of the time running forward. Its kinda like a DIY apprenticeship. Can't wait to see his next project.

My first build was a stock 2L that I blew up within 500k, I took it apart with a couple of good mechanics and learen't loads about what I did right/wrong. Now I'm proud to say my little Kent, that I build from the ground up myself is a little ripper that generates enough hp to put a massive smile on my face. It hasn't been a short learning path but certainly well worth it.

If you don't enjoy tinkering or have the patience to do/redo a job a few times before you get it right, this might not be the right way to go for you.

Cheers,

Mark

I agree totally with Mark, about the do it yourself approach. Have you rebuilt an engine yourself before?. If not, Sometimes you get it wrong but that's all part of the learning curve. But the satisfaction with the outcome surely outweighs the downfalls during the build. My first engine build was a 2ltr, my help was the Gregory's Escort manual. What went wrong was the machine shop put new valve seats in, without the cam, valves an rocker gear which = different heights, which = Massive gaps between some of followers and the cam. The worst was a 35 thou gap to get one of the cam lobes to pass through the follower. (this was not due to a massive lift cam by the way[(#)]). I still have the follower in my shed to remind me, It's massively concaved instead of slightly convexed. A very expensive lesson as a 17 year old, but a good one none the less. Imo get all the machining stuff done professionally and do the assembly yourself. If you come across a hurdle...ASK FIRST...you've got many peeps on the forum willing to help out.
Good luck with it.

go diy, if theres any engine you should be starting out on it would be a kent or pinto, as for buying the tools you will be defiently using them again if you continue to own Escorts thats for sure

Having run a hot 1300 in a rally car they are fun on flat and downhill, things tend to really slow down going up though. The shorter stroke makes the 1300 a bit more rev happy and entertaining but I think they are very much capacity class type of motor. You'll be much happier if you increase the 1600 CR and run with the extra torque.

I'm a die-hard Kent fan but have to accept that the extra 400 cc the Pinto has makes a huge difference in toque, really going 1300 you'll see a similar difference the wrong way.

If you o a full reco yourself the machining charges won't be that high for a hone and deck.

Cleaning the block 100, 1600 kent
Honing the block 50 per cyl
machining the block to make it straight 100
pistons 300
Cam 250
gaskets 200
slipper bearings 200
Thats what it cost me,and i built it