just fitted another pinto mtr into my mk 1 cortina set timing to the marks as best i can and now ive got pe ignition and im not sure on how to fix it- switch the key off and the mtr wants to keep running i don't like it

i've set the points to book specs at 0.025thou and the dwell is at 38 timing at 12 degrees it seems to run and idle ok 900, 1000rpm
after being driven it dosent like being switched off it wants to run on

any solutions would be greatly appriciated
ps just bought a Accuspark for the dizzy this might help not sure

Is the motor a newly rebuilt or one that you had?
A build up of carbon on the pistons can cause pre igniting.
Too high a compression ratio can also cause it, as well as poor fuel, a lack of fuel, cam timing, ignition timing, vacumm leak and engine temp too hot.

A list of the engine specs might help sort the issue.
Have you done a compression test at all?

If so what were the readings.
Good luck.
Thanks
Craig

I would check that the carby is running on the idle circuit when the throttle is at rest and not holding the butterfly slightly open. This will cause it to run on as well. Or even the secondary butterfly slightly open.

Craig.

The motor freshly rebuilt (block only)

cylinder head just needed a clean up the block is high compression inscribed on piston tops H C fuel i always need to pump throttle to start

Followed the book on cam setting/ cylinder head the dot at the bottom of the cylinder block in line with the harmomic balancer tdc mark and rotate the aux shaft to set dizzy ( on the lobe)

all,new gaskets head torqued down to 140 newton meters probably too much

compression test no dont have a gauge

as for the carby it ildes ok little rough although ity still pulls 5000rpm thou the gears and still wants to go even more

its a 2.0 HC, stock head, 32/36 dgas, escort mk 2 4 speed box.

12 deg of timing should be the last mark on the balancer. Is there a need to run the idle speed so fast? On shut down you are more likely to siphon fuel out of the carby causing a run-on condition.

Thats why anti-dieseling solenoids are for, in the 70's everyone was afraid of high NOx emissions. They reduced the ignition timing but this screwed idle speed up, turning the idle speed screws up caused run-on.

Check your plugs too, visually and for heat range. They will show peppering on the porcelin if you are pinging.

You need to map out your timing. Run the engine at idle, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000, and 4000rpm. Note what the timing is at those points. Also find out how much vac advance you have, just suck on the vac hose and read the added advance on the balancer. You will probably have to mark up the balancer to map the curve up.

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Originally posted by dnorris

just fitted another pinto mtr into my mk 1 cortina set timing to the marks as best i can and now ive got pe ignition and im not sure on how to fix it- switch the key off and the mtr wants to keep running i don't like it

i've set the points to book specs at 0.025thou and the dwell is at 38 timing at 12 degrees it seems to run and idle ok 900, 1000rpm
after being driven it dosent like being switched off it wants to run on

any solutions would be greatly appriciated
ps just bought a Accuspark for the dizzy this might help not sure

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Just advance it some more.
If its still starting, without tooo much kick back on starter, u can advance it some more.


If that dont fix it, its a ritual of in gear when u stop and stall motor after switch off via clutch. Dont let it run on.

Well i set the timing marks again set the harmonic balancer to the correct mark.

loosened the tensioner bolt removed belt just slightly moved the harmonic balancer then checked the cylinder head dot with the pointer and a slight adjustment probably 1 tooth on the belt

took the dizzy out and reset the dizzy so that the lobe of the of the dizzy and the points were open and carefully nipped up the dizzy and carefully put the belt on with out moving anything to much

she started first time and idled at 1,100 rpm dwell was at 38.6 and i didn't reset the points gap so it should have been at 0.025 of a though after a few minutes of idle turn off mtr and still over run ,so do it again recheck the marks all ok this time more attention to listening to the mtr and a difrent angle of the timing light it seemed no diffrent turned off mtr and just a little over run and dile at 900 to 1000drives ok dtill not right but better than before luck that it worked other wise it would have been $5.00 worth of fuel and a match ive had enuf ...

change ya spark plugs ... my 1600 runs at 10.5 comp - fully worked,bigger valves,hot cam etc etc -run only on prem unleaded, had run on like you wouldn't believe ... did timing, valve clearances, timing ... timing and more timing .. changed spark plugs to colder and no prob since

im using AP5FS NGK what could i use ?

Just to throw another variable in the mix, +1 for premium only but I've noticed the brand makes a difference. My Kent 1600 was always a pig on Shell but ran much sweeter on Mobil premium. I had the opposite on the Range Rover, loved Shell but ran rough on Mobil.

I don't know the differences in premiums between brand but I've just put it down to combustion chamber shapes.