I think RSman has made the most valid point that it is how you treat it.
 
RS2000, can you comment on your driving style? i.e were your hard launches that broke 12 diffs at the drag strip? and what exactly broke?
 
Out of interest, I have an LSD in mine (so not as much concern re spider gears), pretty light wheels and a very light flywheel/clutch combo (which makes a big difference to the peak torque moment on take off). And i'm mechanically sympathetic, i.e when I do a burnout/launch I don't just dump clutch, I feed it very quickly (burnout) or modulate it into high revs to get me going as quick as possible with minimal wheel spin.
 
Cheers

I've broken too many English diffs to remember at one point I was basically buying wrecks to get diffs out of. I was never into burnouts either.
 
I have never broken an axle either.
About 4-5 years ago I put in a Ford Motorsport LSD and that's held up to some pretty rough track driving and some skid pan work with no issues so far - running 15" semi slicks. I have not pulled axles to check for twist yet but will stick with it until it breaks then I'll most likely go the set and forget method of a BW78.
 
Rhys

Quote=evobda2
You cutting down the existing hilux axles up or replacing with new shorter ones e.g. eurospeed?
 
Evobda2, I'm taking the diff to Rodtech, north east of Adelaide .

I personally have not broke a diff centre or axle mainly cause I swap the gears with lsd and fit all new bearings, as well as fitting anti tramp bars (a main cause of breakage).
One thing I have done is bend an axle hitting a curb doing a broady .!

Rhys, the Borg Warner 78 is the way to go. Craft Diffs in Sydney built me one 14 years ago with Fierra Axles with XD Falcon flanges/bearings. It has copped plenty of caning in those years with no issues. being a 'plated' diff it is a bit noisy. Phil Eyke also runs one of these in his Cossie Cortina and he hasn't busted one yet lol.

I can vouch for the Mazda B series diff. Have been using one for over 10 years with turbo pinto and now cossie. Always on semi-slicks and never had a single problem with it.
The B1600/1800 is 10mm longer than English axle, so no need to shorten axles and housings, but do need to shorten tailshaft slightly as nose of diff is a bit longer than English and change to Mazda flange/UJ.
Orginally had it hooked up with leafs and upper links, now have converted to 5 link.
A bit heavy (17kg more than english from memory) but same weight as a Borg Warner.
I have pulled centres from everything from the original B1800 to B2200/Bravos and thus have centres from 4.44 to 3.73 which is handy.
I'm not a fan of the BW's due to not being able to easily change the ratio since they are a rear loader.
I must say though, I do wonder how good the semi-floating kits for the English axles are these days - they were a bazillion dollars when I put my Mazda in so didnt consider them - but now they are pretty cheap and would save a lot of weight compared to the Mazda/Hilux/BW options. The other great thing about the new semi floating axles is that some of them have barrel splines on the end so you can wind neg camber in, which would be great for circuit stuff.
 
Ash

Have busted plenty of English centres, never broke an axle.
 
All were the result of 'spirited' driving or hard launches.
 
Both Hilux and BW have their place. (I don't have experience with the Mazda option)
 
If it's a case of set and forget, choose the BW,  (as centres not easily interchanged)
 
If you are likely to use for motorsport and want to change centres go Hilux/Hiace. (Centres are front pull out same as escort and a far wider choice of ratios)
 
There is a weight saving if you choose the hiace over the hilux.
 
If you want info  on hilux diffs look here under identifying Toyota diffs
http://rsmotorsport.com.au/user-tech/technical-general/user-tech-differentials
 
As for changing when not necessary, I somewhat agree, however, an upgrade is an upgrade.
 
Shaun
 
 
 
 
 
 

Anybody using an ATB LSD?  I've read they are pretty good for street use, and would eliminate the weakest part of the English axle.

I'm actually less sure of what to do now than when I originally asked the question! Although I'm favouring the Hilux over the BW now. Flighter I have never heard anyone post about the ATB without the next 5 posts saying the clutch style Tran-X is the better choice. I wonder how strong an English with Tran-X and GRP 4 axles would be?

Trent

Perhaps ask, whats your budget. that might sway you one way or the other. I argue a Hilux is a cheap 350HP capable solution when compared to the English. I argue the Hilux is more convenient than the BW for a race car which may have ratio swaps and regular maintenance
The small penalty you pay for weight is offset by the warm feeling your wallet has still being full!
 
JP

HighRevs
Flighter I have never heard anyone post about the ATB without the next 5 posts saying the clutch style Tran-X is the better choice.

I think it all comes down to use.  From what I've read, an ATB has a more predictable action, is quiet, and doesn't need expensive oil or maintenance; all of which I prefer on a street car.  Racing, be it on gravel or tarmac, is a different scenario, so I wouldn't be surprised if a clutch-based LSD is better suited.