Hello all, its engine time for my RS project so I'm doing a plan and I've got a few questions............
I'm set on a mild pinto on carbs (bit old school that way) that I can build myself and maybe do the odd hillclimb or regularity with. Max horsepower is not the aim, just a bit of fun that I can build and tune at home. Already have a few bits to hang on it, manifold to suit 44idf's, Uk alloy sump/ pickup.
Block????? Do I look for a '205'? or just a stock pinto? Baring in mind it will not be bored too far and should just hold some nice rods and pistons. Will have it all matched and balanced.....
Head,????? Do I have the seats done to unleaded or look for a later injection type and have it ported? Or import one already done? What 'stage' do I need?
Cam????? Any ideas or links to the group 1 duration so that I can get one ground? Or is there any other off the shelf options?
Flywheel????? Whilst at the machine shop how far do I safely go with lightening? Ideas on a weight?
Any help welcomed..........
 

For a mild pinto, 44IDF's will be overkill so I suggest you sell that manifold to me HA!
 
Standard 200 block and head is fine. Unleaded valve seats, mild cam, raised compression & double valve springs.
 
Once you go to porting, rods and bigger valves it crosses over to warm engine, for which the IDF's will be handy.
 
Obviously half the cost if you go mild. 
 

Have you looked at the tuning guide from Burton Power?
 
http://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guides/tuning-guide-pages/ford-sohc-pinto-tuning-guide.html

If I was you I would work out what level of engine you want.  Determine what HP figure you want (you say you are not after a high HP motor but were between 100HP and 200HP do you want to be?).  From there people can advise what work needs to be done.  Power from a Pinto comes from head work as they are not the best design out of the box.
 
Probably easy power is available just from getting good valve angles on those new seats plus a different cam.  Very minor port work will get a bit more etc
 
The standard block is good for any spec Pinto bar forced induction unless you want to increase capacity too much.
 
Many more Pinto qualified people on this forum than me however so listen to what they have to say as it will save you some coin in the long run.
 
Goodluck with it!

Cheers guys, I have the burton book and reading the speedpro 'power tune ford sohc' picking up a lot from that...
I am gathering there are two styles of bottom end, roughly under and then over 7000rpm. Would prefer to be over so that's what I'll aim for. Moneys not the big issue, just want to be able to build it myself.
Looked into the flywheel, does 5kg sound about right?????
Looking for a block now, to start the bottom end, looking forward to it..........

Not much point having a bottom end capable of 7000rpm+ unless you are doing headwork as the standard heads cannot breath efficiently over that level.  However, doing the bottom end right once allows for future head upgrades.
 
You are correct about <7000 and >7000rpm engines.  From what I recall:
standard crank is bullet proof up to around 8500rpm
standard rods to just under 7000
standard pistons to around 7000
(somebody will correct me if I am wrong!)
 
Fitting uprated rods and pistons (=lighter) will really make the crank bullet-proof.  Some people use the Sierra steel crank but its not really necessary for a NA engine.
 
You planning on doing some head porting yourself? 

+1 for forged pistons and steel conrods.  Using the standard crank will then make your bottom end bulletproof as above and you can rest easy knowing any future power upgrades will be fine when the power bug bites.
 
I'd go and speak to a few engine builders and tell them your plans and get their input (providing they have experience with Pinto's).
 
Keep us posted with your progress.
 
Cheers,
 
Matt 

Thanks guys,
Put an add on gumtree and 24 hours later I'm looking at a dirty old pinto in my garage. Ran out of time this arvo so its off to the shops for a new engine stand tomorrow. Will strip it down over the weekend for an inspection, then get ready to do the bottom end.
Keen on having a go at the porting, between the speedpro and vizard book I'm getting my head (bad pun) around it.....  
Bare with me, I'm speaking to a few people at the moment, but ultimately want to put it together myself.....
 

Hi Drew,
The Vizard book is a good point to start from, my brother did a full port job on my pinto with his work as a basic point and has added some tweaks of his own. A steady hand with a die grinder and a good selection of burrs will help. Prep for the block is essential - scrub degrease and clean it to within an inch of its life and make sure all surfaces are clean and surfaced flat. UNLEADED SEATS ARE A DEFINITE and get a machine shop to do them and leak test the head to make sure all the seats are ok and sealing properly.  My bottom end is standard, +40thou overbore, head ported and skimmed to produce 10:1 compression, fast road cam , dual valve springs and twin 45's nets me approx. 150HP. Throw in a Type9 box and 4:11:1 LSD and it scoots along nicely.  Car registered yesterday after 3.5 year rebuild - Yaah!!
 
Cheers,
 
Len

 hi
what cam did you use?