Hi, can anyone have a guess what the RPM would be at maximum power, 2.0 pinto with crow mild street cam? Standard 2.0 is 70kW @ 5200rpm. Thanks
 
(26874) FORD 2000 OHC Mild Street Cam$247.50Add to Cart

ratta tat tat

Hi, can anyone have a guess what the RPM would be at maximum power, 2.0 pinto with crow mild street cam? Standard 2.0 is 70kW @ 5200rpm. Thanks

(26874) FORD 2000 OHC Mild Street Cam$247.50Add to Cart

 
Part Number 26874 Lobe Separation 114 Valve Lift  Inlet Opens 24.5 B.T.D.C. Inlet Closes 70.5 A.B.D.C. 0.415  Exhaust Opens 72.5 B.B.D.C. Exhaust Closes 22.5 A.T.D.C. 0.415  Inlet Duration 220 at 0.050   275 Advertised    Exhaust Duration 220 at 0.050   275 Advertised  

 
I would suggest around 5500-6000 rpm (depending on the rest of the engine and hang ons)
 
Have you already purchased the camshaft?
 
If you haven't take this into consideration.
 
Crow have a nasty habit with their Pinto cams to make them with a either one or a combination of these problems
-the lobe centres too wide
-too much advertised duration in relation to .050" duration
-not enough lift
IMO the grind you are looking at suffers from a combination of problems.  I am yet to use a successfull off the shelf Crow grind in any 4 cylinder engine of any brand.
 
Cheers,
Woz
 
 

Have that cam in the RS2000 on dual 40 idfs with 34 chokes, H&H electronic dizzy, 10.5:1 static compression, Genie bigbore extractors with 2 1/4 exhaust. Pulls from idle, ramps up from 3.5k peaks at 6k, hits wall at 6.5k - though that is partially due to the limits of the carbs. 
 
http://youtu.be/w0E7-Wl4uU4
 
Built this engine in 1997 for reliability rather than outright perfromance, not a rocket ship but is quite streetable. Will be soon replacing with more agressive Piper cam.

jimmyd

Have that cam in the RS2000 on dual 40 idfs with 34 chokes, H&H electronic dizzy, 10.5:1 static compression, Genie bigbore extractors with 2 1/4 exhaust. Pulls from idle, ramps up from 3.5k peaks at 6k, hits wall at 6.5k - though that is partially due to the limits of the carbs. 

http://youtu.be/w0E7-Wl4uU4

Built this engine in 1997 for reliability rather than outright perfromance, not a rocket ship but is quite streetable. Will be soon replacing with more agressive Piper cam.

 
I have actually back to back dyno'd a car with that exact cam with twin 40's,  and you're about on the money with the behavior of it.  The difference between it and what we ended up with was the new item made power 500rpm earlier (around 2500rpm, and more power than the Crow where it started at 3000rpm) and peak power and torque also moved down the scale, and once again more power than the Crow and less RPM required to do so. The new grind would also still hold power up top.  Much more drivable and more power everywhere.  Knocked around 2 seconds off lap times without changing anything else, and was far more pleasant to drive anywhere.
 
If you take note of the .050" specs of the Crow grinds (any of the Crow Pinto items, even their so called big ones) compared to other brands the figure is small.  The opening and closing ramps a simply too subtle.   
 
I still suggest if Ratta hasn't already purchased it to get an alternate, it will work much better.
 
Cheers
Woz
 
 

Cam's already installed. I wanted the rpm figure for this calculator. I have been able to use this to find out what size rear tyres will replicate a 3.77 diif, so I can test with tyres before swapping diff gears. 175/65/15 with a 4.1 diff will replicate a 3.77 with my 195/45/15 tyres
http://www.locost7.info/gearcalc.php

hi guys sorry to butt in
Woz what cam do you recommend/compared too.

 

Wozzah
If you take note of the .050" specs of the Crow grinds (any of the Crow Pinto items, even their so called big ones) compared to other brands the figure is small.  The opening and closing ramps a simply too subtle.   
Cheers
Woz

I'm hearing you - it not an optimal power or torque grind for the Pinto engine, but there was method in my madness with the soft opening ramp angle and limited lift key features figuring in the selection of that asymmetric grind cam at the time - my aim was optimising durability and efficiency running 10.5:1 static, mild reworked head, modified 32/36 Weber and small primary headers with 2" exhaust in what was a daily driver. At that time options were somewhat limited, previous Ivan Tighe cam had great power range but was a little too aggressive with bearing, lifter and valve wear; could not find a reliable recommendation for any of the Wade grinds and the Piper/Kent/etc range were stupidly expensive at 30p to the AU$ back in the dim dark 90s.
 
That being said, I am pulling the engine soon to give it the scheduled 15 year freshen up and to maintain a modicum of durability I will be fitting a Piper 285 grind while reconfiguring the engine to better suit its current occasional 'weekend entertainer' duties.
 
In my opinion the 26874 cam is far from hopeless as long as it is matched to complimentary engine preparation and the view is towards improved performance with durability rather than just outright performance.
 
edit:spelling

war

hi guys sorry to butt in
Woz what cam do you recommend/compared too.

 
IMO realistically to get decent power from 2500-6400ish specs need to be around 230@.050", 270-280 deg advertised and valve lift needs to be around .420".  I would suggect lobe centres of around 110 deg.  Peak power is under 6000rpm, and not much drop off up to 6400ish.  Its well and truly over after that.
 
All the above providing other components are matched correctly and the cam geometry is set up correctly.
 
Cheers
Woz

In my own experience I have found that lsa and intake centreline plays a bigger role then a lot of people realise.

Jimmyd what is your cranking psi? I would guess it would be south of 170psi even with the comp of 10.5.

spigot

In my own experience I have found that lsa and intake centreline plays a bigger role then a lot of people realise.

Jimmyd what is your cranking psi? I would guess it would be south of 170psi even with the comp of 10.5.

Pretty close to the mark. During build I calculated the dynamic compression ratio at around 7.95:1 which was in keeping with running cast hypereutectic pistons and 91 octane leaded pump fuel at the time of the engine build; to get into 8.5:1 theoretical optimal range for street use it would need between 11:1 & 11.5:1 static, 100 octane and forged pistons for durability. I would have entertained a considerably different grind if I was going to pursue that route but as this was a daily driver that needed to be able to run reliably on pump gas the build specs proved the best available compromise a the time.