looks like its gonna be a weapon. just wondering what power steering rack your using? cheers

1990 ford Capri, relocated to rear of crossmember, reversed crossmember and struts.[%]

just as a point of interest, i have a set of mk2 struts. they have a tube wall thickness of 1.2mm. I am not sure if they are 1.6 or 2l struts.
I have just cut up my Capri struts to find that thy have a tube wall thickness of 2mm.
This might be another reasion to convert to Capri front struts, adding to the larger stub size and the hub being 15mm higher on the strut.

Ok. next update, i have successfully shortened the arms on the steering rack to suit. They come up a treat and was quite an easy job, Just machined down the rod to the corect size and re-threaded it. I ended up making some new steering arms by cutting up some old mk2 struts and using the steering arms from them. because the steering rack is now behind the crossmember it required the tie rod nuckel to be inside (rather than outside) of the ball joint on the LCA to keep all the steering geomitry correct. When bolted up to the Capri struts it has also adreesed this problem.[%][%]
I have also cut up my struts and dummy fitted all the coil over bits to it. just have to finish the strut tops and weld the collars onto the struts for the threaded tube to sit on once i work out where it has to go. So at last i can wheel it around again.[%]
Sits nice and low now.[:u][:u][:u]

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I will get some more pics of the coil overs and steering arms soon.

Well i have my steeering rack shortened to the right length now. I had to cut 55mm from each side and re-thread the rod. they look just like original. I have re-used the tie rods that were on the steering rack as they fit into the MK2 steering arm.

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I have then cut up a mk2 strut and removed the steering arm from it.

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I have used one of the threaded holes to attach it to the Capri strut but i had to redrill and tap another one so that it was angled down more to get the steering geomitry corect.




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This gives you an idea of where the Capri steering arm was positioned and where the new steering arm is. the Mk2 steering arm is heavier/thicker than the Capri one also.


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I have machined up some collars for the struts, for the threaded tube to sit on. I made them up from some hydrolic ram tube. they now just need to be positioned corectly (which i can't do untill i have my motor together) and welded into place. all of the rest of the coil over set up is fitted.

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Well that is progress this week. I am still making up the adjustable strut tops but they are well on their way also.

Great to see your still plugging away at it. I've always been amazed at the scope of this project. And the most amazing bit is that you don't have some fancy workshop, just imagination and skill.

I can't wait to see this RS doing its thing.

man your Escort looks so sweet. It will an incredible achievement when this gets going. Also it sounds like its going to be animal as well. Really well done mate!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks Guys.
It has been far slower progress than i had been hoping for but it is still moving forward.
Well this is the craft wood template, strut top plate, just test fitted to show the caster and aprox. adjustment needed to corect the camber. Because the car is so low it has pushed the wheels out causing masive amounts of negitave camber. I will be cutting out the hole in the body to have a square corner to allow a little further adjustment with out fouling the shocker top. Now that the top plates are corect i will make up some from 10mm alloy, I have to make up a few bushes and a few other things but all the designing seems finished and that is the hard part.


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showing the coil overs fitted.


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showing how the steering arm runs almost parelle with the lower control arm now with the mk2 steering arms fitted. All the steering geomatery seems to be very close to perfect.[:x)]


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Still waiting on my sump, I want to start getting the motor together so i can get it started. [:p][:p]

This is how the strut top progressed tonight.
started by drilling the holes.

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Then to cut out the holes for the bearing to fit through and to counter sink the bolt holes so that the heads of the bolts are flush with the plate.

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Then to slot all the holes so that i had my adjustment.


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Then to champfer all the edges of the bolt slots.

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Finaly to fit the bearing carrier to the under side of the plate. Just have to dirll the bolt holes to fix it to the strut tower in the car and it is done.

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Looking very good there. well done.