Well yeah guys,

Like i said above i think i have found the solution to the issue, but its just a matter of sourcing what i need to fix it.

Its been said its due to the lack of caster in the front wheel since lowering it, apparently common in escorts because as you lower the car, the sway bar gets longer towards the back and pushes the wheels back. I need to run an adjustable sway bar to correct it. Im just trying to source one.

Looking really good, nice job on the paintwork, alot can be said for super clean original paintwork. Most people are in too much of a hurry to put crisp new paint on a car when the old stuff just needs a bit of elbow grease and thats still alot easier than rubbing a whole car back. Older paint tells a story to me, imperfections are just little trophies...
Keep the pics coming, good to hear your enjoying the car.
Cheers Drew

hey aaron, great to see you on mondays cruise. hope the car behaved its self for you.
on the note of needed more castor you could always install adjustable strut tops instead of a swaybar. that way you will be less likely to alter the position of the wheel in the gaurd and open up a car of worms with tyre scrub. Installing adj strut tops and adjusting them as far back as possible with give a decent increase in castor

Hey,
The car most certainly did behave itself, other than the caster issue of course. Oh and the funky fuel gauge haha. Telling me it was empty, when it ended up having ¼ tank left haha.

I thought about the tops, however i figured that in doing that, its essentially moving the whole suspension backwards in the car that little bit, if that makes sense. I feel like i should correct the bit thats out of whack first, ie the lower arms being backwards.

Well i hope that works, because ive ordered a K-mac bar for it, which is cheaper than the K-mac tops anyway.

I managed to draw up and calculate a diagram to workout how much the arms moved backwards, in which case was 6-8mm. So this is how much i need to move them forward to correct it back to factory original caster, plus a couple mm because i can.

Ok, i am nearly defeated haha. 

I still plan to install adjustable strut tops, maybe soon than i wanted to, but i did go with a k-mac sway bar. I have just had it all setup, wheel alignment done, and +3mm caster added in. It drives great, steering feels amazing, and the handling is getting better, BUT, i still have this wobble through the steering wheel. 

So I'm running out of ideas as to what it could be :( 

For what it's worth, ave you tried fitting the original wheels and taking it for a spin to see if that rectifies the wheel wobble issue.

or have you replace the plastic bush inside the steering rack?
It made a difference for my capri many years ago

It is either the tie rod ends on the rack are worn out or lower control arms ball joints worn or combination of both....the concerning thing is that you obviously took the vehicle to a steering/suspension specialist and they couldnt work that out...skills standards these days are shocking....

Ok, bit of an update. Good news, sort of.

The remainder of the wobble is wheel related.

So, the front suspension is all new. LCAs inc. bushes and ball joints, tie rod ends, coil springs, swat bar D bushes and steering coupling.
I have not touched the rack, so no i havent replaced this little bush (advice on that would be good) and i havent replaced the rack mount rubbers, but they look pretty good condition.

Doing what I have done now, with the sway bar and adding the caster in, has helped, a LOT. The car steers nicely, direct, good feel, and certainly handles better.
Yes i had it aligned this morning, i didnt deal with him face to face, i had to send a mate down in the car to have it done, but speaking with him on the phone, he sounded genuine in his knowledge, and turns out he drifts falcons. He was also the only place out of 4 willing to look at the car, A on a saturday, and B without booking it in a week in advanced.

So as a result of the alignment, yes i thought it had acheived nothing. Then my mate Cal was mucking about with the wheels, (Citroen 15s) it using a feeler gauge, it appears there is about .5mm difference in the ID of the wheels, and the section of hub the wheels are supposed to sit on, ie using the shanked wheel nuts to locate. Cal managed to get the wheels as best he could to central, and bam, the majority of the wobble is gone. Which means im going to have to run hub rings in the rims, no biggy.
Now the strange part (to me it is at least) the other wheels (13" mk2 steelies) did the same thing, caused the same wobble. They were not a snug fit either. Does that mean they shouldve also had hub rings, despite being a genuine Escort wheel?

As for teying the original 12" wheels, id love to but the tyres are completely shot on them, and would not feel safe running them on the car at all.

There is also a vibration contributing to all this, which i now believe is the 2 peice tailshaft, which i know the centre bearing is on its way out.

That's great news.
 
I have had the same issue with another car of mine and hub centreic rings rectified it, shame you couldn't have tried the original wheels as it would have saved a lot of headaches..
 
Happy motoring now!!!