Hello all, I've got a couple electrical of questions if anyone can help....
I've put in a master isolator switch (pic included) it was in the car and working before I started. Not getting any power through it at the moment though, but if I bypass it with a jumper lead it works, question... is there likely to be an inlet and outlet side? Short on that it'll have to come out for testing...
Second question, the starter motor is stuck on, turn the key off, pulled it out and it still goes, ended up having to disconnect the battery to stop it ( a working isolator would be nice ) I hooked the battery again, it had stopped but did the same when I tried again... Any ideas before I pull it all apart again and start testing?
I'm a bit of a novice with electrics but building the cars been about learning for me so its time an old dog learned some more new tricks...
Cheers Drew... 
 

The starter motor sounds like your wiring is screwed up. The isolator should have a feed from the earth or positive sides of the battery and go straight to the switch, if its  not working then your wiring is messed up

The isolator switch is just a copper bar that drops across 2 terminals when you turn the key so no inlet or outlet side.They can be problematic as they are not insulated from dirt and moisture and the copper bar can also bend preventing contact. I've seen some guys screw a self tapper into bottom of red key to get a bit more weight on contacts. Best to replace it if it's playing up. Just went through this with mine. looking on eBay they all look the same, but those that do list it show different amp ratings which probably reflects the size and/or quality of the contacting surfaces. Ended up just buying a replacement by narva from repco.

Starter sounds like the solenoid is sticking. Can be the solenoid itself or the armature that slides the pinion sticking. hopefully you will get away with a good clean once you break it down

I'll second that starter motor diagnosis. I had exactly the same problem a while ago with a newly reconditioned exchange starter motor, and that was a faulty solenoid in my case, had to disconnect the battery to disengage the starter just like you did.
 
Cheers, Jason.

As suggested you need to note the real life amp rating as the starting current will soon reveal a poor quality switch.

I've had no problems with this Autolec switch from the supplier below, if you end up needing another one.
Couldn't tell you the actual amp rating, as I've never had reason to check, but the stated rating is 100A continuous.
It's a six pole switch that cuts battery & ignition, and also comes with a ceramic resistor that's wired in to take the output current from your alternator if the engine is running when the isolator switch is thrown.
 
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FIA-motorsport-approved-battery-isolator-switch-/141811610223
 
Cheers,
Jason.

Thanks for the help, got a new isolator this morn, direct replacement so didn't have to muck around, rated at 250amp continuous, all fitted and working now... Spot on with the starter guys, it did the same this morn but after a thump with a rubber mallet it turned itself off, so looks like its the armature, will have to get it out for a play this arvo...
Thanks again Drew...

Glad to see you got it sorted