2014/06/10 11:46:34
Schlutes
Guys,
Just fitted a news set of King springs (lowered) to the front struts of my v6, but now have a very pronounced spring noise when turning.
Has anyone had this issue and if so what is the repair solution.
Thanks in advance guys.
2014/06/10 11:49:55
Matt75
It is the spring moving in the seats and making a clunking noise.
 
You can use a hose clamp to secure the spring so it doesn't move.  You may need to drill a hole in the speing seats wihich will also aid water drainage.
 
Cheers
 
Matt
2014/06/10 12:26:35
mac1capri
I had this problem once. You need to jack your car up and have front wheels totally off the ground. Loosen the bolt at the top of the strut tower slightly, then grab the actualy spring (put you hands in between the body and the wheel) and turn it so that the end of the coil at the top sits in the groove. Hope this helps
 
Paul
2014/06/10 14:45:18
GTV6
Yes I have just had this problem with the Kings.  I have tried everything to fix.  My guess is that the soft end of the progression is too soft so the spring winds in the seat and then jumps back out of position.  They should be stiff enough in torsion to grip in the seat and make the seat move.  Kings agent denies all.  Kings themselves ignore emails.  Coming soon to ebay 1 set of king springs.  BTW I hated the ride as well...too stiff...can feel every minor bump.  Kings agent says they are meant to be 180lb and soft prgression only works on rebound, not what kings web site says but again no answer from them to the questions about rates.  I now have a set of Burtons 145lb, ride is nice, no clunking around corners, but I would like them a touch lower.  Price from Burtons delivered was about the same.
2014/06/11 06:33:27
Schlutes
Yes GTV6 this is exactly what is happening. The spring appears to be moving in the top of the mount causing the noise as the springs slips.
Not sure what to do now other than as you suggest use them as a paper weight.
2014/06/11 10:33:23
BEE VEE
RE:    ALTERATION FROM FACTORY STANDARDS.................................................................................
In majority of cases, and having worked and still working in the Motor repair Industry all my life, keeping it standard factory equipment for public roads usually is its own reward. To drive on public roads and alter from Factory Standard, it should be done by Professionals who will be responsible for its RWC-ness as well as re-work under warranty if not done right. If this option can't be afforded, best left alone and maintained Standard and RWC. (Also saves destroying the exhaust System and other consequences like Random Roadside Police Inspections!).
On the subject of non-standard, I must look up the regs, as in the "old days" it was legally accepted to have "Lake Pipes" hanging out the side just in front of the back wheels as there were no back doors or movable windows on some coupes, thereby eliminating "Fumes Ingress".
cheers
Bernie
2014/06/11 14:00:51
GTV6
The top mounts have a lot of friction being just rubber on steel.  A couple of final checks.  Dont over tighten the shock nut.  The books says 28-32 ft.lb with car on the ground.  Over tightening will crush the steel insert into the top plate.  Make sure the steel insert in the rubber mount isnt binding on the top plate.  This will happen if the rubber is too far worn but is unlikely if your old springs werent jumping.  Also the rubber deforms due to the angle of the strut, so you need to make sure they went back in in exactly the same position otherwise you will be fighting the wear.  You can easily see it.  The more compressed side goes towards the outside of the car.  My freehand drawing skills are non existant but hopefully the attached sketch will make it clearer.  I just got some recond mounts and the angle is in them as well.
 
If you want your teeth to rattle out you could put nolathane tops with roller bearings to reduce the friction, but cheaper and more comfortable to keep the rubber and replace the springs.

Attached Image(s)

2014/06/11 14:14:37
GTV6
To save someone else from a King Springs disaster the attached picture shows that at rest the soft coils are bound, meaning that they are doing nothing until the wheel rebounds, which is why the ride is harsh and you feel every little bump in the road.  The car is effecitivly riding on just over 2 coils making it a very high spring rate.  The King Springs KFFL-13 are not fit for use in a V6 street car IMHO.
 

Attached Image(s)

2014/06/11 17:08:08
Schlutes
Thanks GTV6,
I will get back under the front and see if I can't digest and come up with a fix given your thorough response. I do appreciate the time it takes for forum members to add thoughts based on experience.
2014/06/11 18:58:20
cosworthfreak
GTV6The King Springs KFFL-13 are not fit for use in a V6 street car IMHO.


After looking at the Kings Springs catalogue, I think you might be on to something. If you search for 'KFFL-13' you'll find that they're listed for:

Standard height
- Capri 4cyl

Lowered
- Capri V6

It appears that Kings assume that the same spring will do both jobs, i.e. the heavier V6 engine will do the lowering for you. It may be that they haven't actually developed a specific lowered V6 capri front spring.

Cheers
Jamie

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