The water pump on my 1600 is looking a bit 2nd hand. What are the odds that the internals are just as corroded?
Should I just put a new one on, or give this one a go?

And if I do get a new one, are the ones on ebay any good?
$42 one
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Capri-Cortina-Escort-Water-Pump-1-1-1-3-1-6-late-/280629880213?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4156d82595
$56 one
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BRAND-NEW-WATER-PUMP-FORD-ESCORT-70-82-1-1L-1-3L-1-6L-MK-I-MK-2-/120810519866?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c20de3d3a
Or is there a better place to get a decent one from?

Hi-- i find that the older ones dont stand up under pressure test and the seal blows at 16 PSI and they link when fitted to to the motor ---- if there is no bad looking corroded  holes in it ----and the cooling system holds a good presure test say 30 PSI  and the bearing are not making a noise and the pump  prop  looks OK---- then go with that one ---there is a hole under the pump where the water links from --- i bunged mine up and  filled it with grease-- worked OK ---just keep an eye ( or a ear ) on the bearing as if it ever dos leat go the fan may  hit the Radiator----

Hi Peter
I have used worse looking pumps that that, flush the block with a garden hose (radiator hoses disconnected and thermostat out). when you are ready to run down the street, just fill with water (no inhibitor) and run the engine until nice and warm, the rad cap lifts at 13 psi so pressure testing much past that is a bit of overkill.
Check the tell tail hole under the pump for signs of leakage, as well as the rest of the system. If ok add the inhibitor. If it starts to leak further down the track they are not hard to change (un like a lotus).
Or just change it now and sleep well at nights.

I use GMB pumps that are made in Japan and use Koyo bearings $55 and I reset the impellor height to OE spec.
OR
I have OE pumps with cast bronze impellor for $99