Hi all,
I have just fitted some new head gaskets, followed the tighten sequence as per the manual. Started the engine got it to running temp and re-torqued as per the book and the damn things leak water forward of both 1 and 4 cyclinder pots. Had both the block and heads machined............ Any idea on what I have done wrong??  I plan to get a new gasket kit and try again, is there a sealant I should be using on the head or block surface.
 

It's usually the manifold seal that leaks, are you sure its not running down from there?

Also ,what psi are you up to on the head bolts?

You forgot about "Murphy" haven't you ?!..............first of all NEVER assume "they" m/c your block and heads
"true flat". Once you have a known & proven "Straight Edge" the length of your 3 pots at a diagonal, test all 4 surfaces at their 'diagonals' as well as their 'straights' with feeler gauges to establish how good a job was done.
Like painting.........preparation, cleanliness and testing is the basis of a good job welldone.......tedious and long-winded as it may be..............Did you double-check ALL holes in BOTH Gaskets against BOTH heads to ensure 100% correct gaskets ? ........Did you test your Thermostat on the Kitchen stove regardless of its age, and does it have a 'relief hole' of around 1 mm to allow "air bleed", before install to engine ? .......Did you follow Gasket Manufacturers advice re fitment ? ..........If no instructions, or questionable quality of H/Gaskets, then a light spray of "Hylomar" on heads and Block just before INSTALL, can be of huge benefit............
......NOTE.....ALL ABOVE IS ASSUMING YOU'VE PROVEN YOUR LEAKS really are AT THE HEAD GASKETS
Never be in a "hurry" like the guy who.............
"Never Has Time To Do the Job Properly the First Time, 
but Then Finds The Time to do it Properly the Second Time !"
 
Good Hunting
 

There are a few possibilities here.
Take GTV6's advice and look carefully at where the manifold and head mate on the drivers side (in front of pot 1).  As you have machined the block and the head (and who knows how many times before) my guess is that the base of manifold is now almost in contact with the block.  Consequently when you install the gasket the thicker cork section will not compress enough to allow the manifold to seal on each of the heads.  To check place manifold without gasket onto the heads, there should be a min 1.5mm to 2mm max gap between the manifold and the block.
If this looks OK and water is definitely from the head gaskets, check that each head bolt is not bottoming out prior to and during torqueing.  Also check head locating studs.
Head gaskets generally are installed dry and torque the head bolts 15ftlb more than the 60 to 70ftlb recommended.
 
Keep Torgueing.
John
 
 
 
 

Inlet manifold.  Take it off, check for extra gasket hang over at the front near the distributor, trim it.  You will most likely find a gap at the edge of the head to block fill this with silicone.  Put a thick bead around the dizzy cut out.  Put some dowels in the inlet manifold bolt holes and locate the gasket.  Then put on the manifold and swap out the dowels for bolts.  Check you have the correct bolts in their location as there are 2 sizes, one length goeas around the carb holes, the other size around the outside

Do the same manifold checks at the back as well.  Mine leaked there last time.