G'day all,
Started sorting out the mess of wiring in my Mk1 Cortina project.
A couple of things I've noticed is that it has no fuse box (see questions) and the coil wire is burnt on the spare loom that I'm using as a reference.
Would it be an idea to put a fuse on the coil circuit? If so any ideas of an amperage?
Is there any other circuits that would benefit from a fuse?
Putting a battery isolator within reach of the driver but this won't be any good if its already started burning so just want some extra insurance of fuse(s) if something goes wrong.
Cheers Drew. 

I couldn't believe there was no fuses from factory until I checked the wiring diagram for myself!
I would fit a fuse box so all circuits are fused, there is a guy who has done a diagram on it that may be of some help.
 
http://www.tommysandham.name/fusebox.htm

That's a very handy reference, plenty of aftermarket fuse boxes available or get a late model circuit breaker type from the wreckers, depending on space to mount or retaining a bit closer to period look. Len

Good move hiding extra in line fuses behind DASH............also, introducing a Fusible Link on the Positive Starter Terminal is a very safe addition, & not noticed as an addition, as the type I'm referring to looks like any other wire on the Main Feed..........should ANY Major shorts occur, this F~L~ will break the Main Feed until the problem is found and you renew it.  It won't blow when just one of the circuits blow the other fuses of less than 35 amp.
A 35 Amp Fusible Link should be heaps, but if you want to be sure, as very few cars are stock in electrics any more, disconnect one battery terminal and fit an accurate Analogue or Digital Amp guage in series capable of 45 amp or more (Digital Guage is preferable).  Turn on ALL switches to all circuits Inc reverse gear , Radio, Rear screen Demister,  Heater Hi speed, Indicators, Radiator and hi beams, etc.
With help from apprentice , observe Testing Amp Guage when helper holds foot on brake and holds Horn on......... Starter Motor IS NOT in this Test as it's NOT fused....... If total LOAD comes to, say, 31 Amp, always go for a F Link next higher rating like 35 Amp............ If it's 34 Amp, go to 40 Amp rating F Link. Never go smaller.
If in doubt, get a Qualified Auto Electrician to do it.
 
NB.......ALL connections should ALL be soldered.  If you rely on "crimping", you're asking for trouble and you needn't bother with the above Test.  Crimped connections increase in " resistance" over time and then cause that circuit to draw more current than that wire was designed to carry, until it all ends in tears. 
Ensure all connections are cleaned and kept clean . Then protect with proper Contact Spray. 
All terminals and all wires must be fully insulated and tight.

Thanks for the replys guys,
Blue, I was scratching my head at the lack of fuse box too, went over the car and wiring diagram a couple of times thinking I must have missed it. Great diagram on the fuses thanks.
Bernie, heading to the sparky to get some fuses this week so I'll ask him about the fusable link on the starter aswell, good advice.
Cheers Drew.

Glad to help Drew.  Remember the F Link is at the heavy cable terminal of the Starter just to "hide" non factory wiring and has no influence at all on the Starter.  Most people put the FL at the other end of the heavy cable which is the pos Battery terminal !
Cheers
BERNIE

<p>Glad to help Drew. &nbsp;Remember the F Link is at the heavy cable terminal of the Starter just to "hide" non factory wiring and has no influence at all on the Starter. &nbsp;Most people put the FL at the other end of the heavy cable which is the pos Battery terminal !</p> <p>Cheers</p> <p>BERNIE</p>