Highly recommend to find a copy of "How To Modify Ford SOHC Engines" by David Vizard ISBN 0 86343 0856 published in 1984 is ancient however most of the documentation is still relevant and a good starting point for research.
 
Highly recommend NOT using the standard rods unless they are modified to the Vizard specification and include the ARP or similar rod bolts. The standard rod bolts are the weak point. Better still invest in improved quality rods.
 
If you are going to use forged pistons why not have them machined to decrease the compression and do away with the crappy decompression plate?
 
Highly recommend that you spend the money in view to run boost to 20psi. 6psi will make an improvement, but you will find how addictive and simple it is to keep increasing the boost to increase the performance. The horsepower and torque are in the head and the turbo, the reliability in the bottom end.
 
Don't forget by increasing the horsepower and torque will cause dramas in other areas such as chassis and gearbox and differential and rear suspension and brakes.

Yep... gunna buy that book tonight!! Lol. Yeah i would 100% do the con rods too. Im not searching for 250hp... maybe a 130-180... but im not doing it for numbers... in saying all of this. Its still going to be a "daily" kind of car.

Now the other issue. Need engineering with slapping a turbo on or not?? Im thinking of keeping the brakes standard in the front. Datsun master cylinder.. and hilux rear end with hilux brakes. Cool or?

You won't get a turbo motor engineered with standard brakes. They'll be looking at volvo 4pots at the front and rear disc conversion (r31 is a good one) as a minimum (both fit in 13" wheels).
The hilux drum brakes are huge and wrong study pattern. Scrap them and put a disc conversion.
 
Rule of order to performance i always say is:
1st: upgrade suspension and brakes
2nd: then look for more power..
 
If your ONLY looking for say around 160hp (which makes an escort pretty darn quick - any more and you need to really sort out suspension & chassis to suit), i would stick with the standard diff for now. It may go, it may not. But converting to hilux is still more work/expense if it isn't the correct size, not to mention is very heavy. And with the power you are wanting may be more a disadvantage than advantage (unless just burnouts is your thing of course).
Id try the escort diff first.. If not simply thrashed they can ok.
 
Here's what id do:
- Keep escort diff and convert to r31 brakes
- Volvo 4pot front brakes
- New shocks, new springs all round (say 225lb front for the extra weight you'll have, decambered rears), new bushes all round, 22mm sway bar. Tramp bars if you start getting axle tramp (tramp will kill the diff too).

As peter has mentioned, boost is addictive and as i mentioned, it is all too easy to turn up the wick, at which point, you will find your wek points.
 
You will have to make the decision, do it once, and do it right, OR, get it going, have some fun and buld up a decent motor in the meantime.
 
There are plenty of rod and piston combos available these days and once you decide on these, some calculations, a dummy build and machining will decide on your compression ratio.
 
If this is your first build, try and find a sympathetic engine builder, do your homework and discuss with them your plans.  Again, speak to an engineer before deciding on any purchases if you wish to keep it all legal. 
 
Shaun
 
 
 

Okay. Cool. Well yes this is my first real build. With the boost yes, i bet its hard to hold back.. but in saying that. I should have a fair amount of self control.with the engine, Swapping pistons and rods. Bearings etc.. can be done by myself? Maybe hone out but nothing major. now with brakes,Yes all for that idea. What is a common ratio for turbo pintos?

What about this one

Nope.
 
This one:  http://www.amazon.co.uk/How-Modify-Ford-S-O-H-C-Engines/dp/0863430856/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_t
 

There is a Pinto turbo package on eBay and is very cheap.
 
Matt

sundowner
turbo pintos arent that hard to do, 
mine has made decent power for not much money, in fact ive spent around $2500 
using a carb, but to be honest injection would be ideal. im interested to see what you come up with on the injection manifold side.

 
For less than $20 For Parts you could build yourself a 50/50 Water/Methanol injector, utilising the primary in your carby,!! ...
It will supply an injected mix in direct proportion to the fuel demand, at idle there is no flow of mix, can be metered with a Needle Valve from an Aquarium that sells Exotic salt water fish, or a Brass or Copper tube drilled with 5 or 6 holes 1.5mm Dia. covered or uncovered with PVC or PU pipe/hose rings or segments to control when mix starts to flow, you then get the benefits.!! Cooling, Eliminating Carbon buildup, ... in High Compression engines Helps to REDUCE the POSSIBILITY of DETONATION.!!   With a Power Increase that Verges on exciting.!! ... Will only work on NA Engines.!! ... I'm working on a Throttle Body Mod. for EFI or Forced Induction Engines, through which i will only run DI Water, The sole purpose being to Eliminate Carbon in the Combustion Chamber.!! ....... It's the wife's car.!!
 
Any Info. needed is free.!! ... PM me if interested ... Geoff
 
Water/Meth is ok for a track car, an Absolute No No for Street Registration or H plates (illegal).!! ... Can't find a Needle Valve locally, so it's back to 1/4" Copper pipe 1/8" ID, it's cheaper anyway.!!

Matt75
It's the piston rings that won't cope with the pressures of the turbo over time.  Forged pistons will be good.
 
Matt   

What causes the Failure.??
 
Geoff