Hey guys,
Brake Booster has had it and is the reason my vaccum is so sh!t. just wondering has a MkII brake booster for sale? or in your experience what have you done when your booster has stuffed up? take it somewhere to get fixed? or easy to fix yourself? it's the diaphram thats has stuffed up i think.

Rhys.

Blow into the diaphram where the inlet line goes, and see if it leeks air. don't pump the leaver at the rear and have break fluid go everywhere.
Reconditioning it is the safest bet.
A second hand one will just do the same thing once you start giving it a hard time.

G'day Rhys,

I just had my booster overhauled by Power Brakes in Adelaide for $250. Not all units are servicable as some cannot be pulled apart without being damaged. I now know what to look for in a servicable one, but it is hard to describe. If you look on the outer edge from the bracket end, you will see a series of small indents that run around the edge. These indents hold the inner bits to the outer casing. Look on the inside of the indents and you will see the rear plate that the indents lock in. Look on the outer edge of that plate and see if there are matching cutouts so that is you spun the plate around a few degrees, the cutouts will match the indents and the unit will come apart. If there are no cutouts, you are on the hunt for a new one. I hope that make sense and you may need to clean it up to see them. If you want, I may be able to get a pic as I haven't refitted mine as yet. I say may be able to, cause it's all painted black and I am not sure how well they will stand out.

You need to watch with the boosters, as there was a change at some point and there are slight differences in the length of the bracket and also the length of the arm coming out of the booster. I know, cause I brought a second hand one, which I never fitted because it was different. You can have it for the $25 it cost me + postage if you want it. I was assured it worked, but never tried it and I this is one that can not be serviced. It has some surface rust on the outside but I'm sure it will clean up.

Another alternative is to try ABS. When I rang them a month or so ago, they had a change over unit available which was about $250 + postage. If mine wasn't serviceable, I was gonna grab it.

Cheers

Tim

quote:

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Originally posted by 3sc0rt

Hey guys,
Brake Booster has had it and is the reason my vaccum is so sh!t. just wondering has a MkII brake booster for sale? or in your experience what have you done when your booster has stuffed up? take it somewhere to get fixed? or easy to fix yourself? it's the diaphram thats has stuffed up i think.

Rhys.

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i left it unplugged.
man up, go booster less [:p]

Cheers Maxrs, It is gonski.

I am going to get another one and hook it up and see how i go and im not man enough for the boosterless [8~2] i need support to stop [V]

I got two capri ones reco'd six months back for $180 each or around that, form a place in warners bay (Brakes by the bay) i thick there name is.O

Hi guys, im setting up vaccum advance on my 2lt and i've got twin 40's and just wondering where abouts you connect it on the carb? can someone help me on where abouts to put it?

Im also thinking about gettin a electric fuel pump. Is there any major advantage to swappin from a mechanical one? im just finding my mechanical one isnt pumping hard enough. i look at my filter and there is a dismal ammount going through it and im thinkinh it may be effecting performance. if i could grab some opinions on that it would help stacks . Oh and how much for one thesee days?

Also does anyone with twin carbs have any trouble with there venturies popping out? mine seem to pop out when i give it some.. very very annoying. there must be a bit of presure behind it to pop them out and i cant seee why its happening [:(!]

Cheers Rhys

Well... it seem's i may have to pull the twin 40 webers off and go back to the 32/36 for awhile due to my twin's running like a fat lady. Im having endless trouble with the venturies, tuning, soft mounts, linkage & vaccum advance.

So i am going to pull the twins off and put the old trust 32/36 back on and have it running better and way more effcient on fuel that's for sure!

My objective is to get the twins off and rebuild them so i can minimize all the dam trouble in having. Now i intend on getting new jets's, Venturies & choke size. Now im not a %100 on what jet's, venturies & what choke sizes are needed to achieve what i want [?] I'm looking for power more then every day drivability as it will now be a weekend toy or track day/hillclimb.

So the theory i've been told is that if you run bigger venturies it means more power and if they are smaller venturies it means more torque? & with bigger chokes you can make it run as good as 45's? (Please correct me if im wrong guys) & with the jets in them already they were put in when i first got it dynoed but since then i have got higher compression so i dont know how you can tell what size jet's you require to get the perfect match!

My setup is a:

- 2L Pinto
- 10:1 Compression
- Shaved head (cant remember exactly how much, im pretty sure it was a big shave because he warned me of blowing a head gasket [xx(])
- Port Polish Head
- Double valve springs
- Stage 4 Cam (3500-7000RPM)

The turning point for me where everything went bad was when i got my car dyno tuned for the second time and he changed the Venturies to a smaller size because he claimed them too big. So from then on i had troubles ranging from venturies poppin out into my filter boxes all the time, poor performance & a huge pain in my arse! [}:)] So now i am going to take the time to rebuild them the best way possible and have them complete for the Dyno tuner ready for hes tuning.

If anyone can give me some suggestions on Choke size, Venturie Sizes, jet sizes, Methods etc that would be a great help. I haven't rebuild carbs before and i dont really know the formulas to get what i want and hoping maybe someone on here know's what im lookin for [:x)]

Get rid of the Vacuum advance. I got rid of the diaphram and put a screw through the two plates in the dizzy for the vac advance to lock it up. Then you solely rely on the mechanical advance, which is only about 6 - 8 degrees.

You want the total ignition advance to be about 30 degrees.. I made a mark on my crank pulley at 30 and as long as it totalled at 30 max it was fine, so static was around 22-24 degrees

Cheers,

Damion

Send an email to Gary Brampton at eurocarb

Gary@eurocarb [weborders@eurocarbltd.idps.co.uk]

was a wealth of knowledge on webers / dellorto's bits and bobs for my setup.