I was running a car yard when I built my car and had the panel beater we were using cut and reshape the front gaurds for me. You'd be hard pressed to pick it as not being factory.
It's too cold and wet to walk down to the shed tonight, attached is the best photo I could find on my computer.
 

Thanks for the picture mud, exactly what I'm looking for. Might not had to start my cut as high as you have. But deffinatly close to what I'm planning on doing.

I has to do a similar mod to the front lip of my guards on the autocross car. The front spoiler makes it slightly worse for clearance too. I took a triangle off the spoiler about 40mm along the bottom and about 120mm up the side fom memory. Then trimmd the panel underneath to suit, bending in a small lip with pliers to give it back some strength....
Sorry i cannot take any photo as i am flat on my back in hostpital atm...

I has to do a similar mod to the front lip of my guards on the autocross car. The front spoiler makes it slightly worse for clearance too. I took a triangle off the spoiler about 40mm along the bottom and about 120mm up the side fom memory. Then trimmd the panel underneath to suit, bending in a small lip with pliers to give it back some strength....
Sorry i cannot take any photo as i am flat on my back in hostpital atm...

I think you will find that the amount of scraping is a factor of a number of things, such as tire width, wheel offset and adjustable front sway bar. My 15's on the race car just nick the front spoiler, but i have had 13's scrape quite badly. The 14's i used to use on the autocross car were particularly bad as the ooverall tire diametre was larger too. To get more castor without having to cut or fold the guards, try spme adjustable strut tops where you move the top of the strut backwards- instead of an adjustable swaybar (or machined swaybar end) to move the bottom of the strut forwards. Standard Ghia wheels with 205/60/13 just tip a front spoiler with everything standard... so you do not have much roon to lay with - especially if you have wheels with more dish or offset which will pushhl the tyres further forward at partial lock.

Thanks na.charrett.

The car currently runs a std sway bar adjusted all the way forward on a 2inch drop antidive, noltec small.top adjustable strut tops. Adjustable lower control arms.

I've found with every wheel / tyre combo I've had
Saab 15x6 et33 195/50r15
ghia wheels 205/60r13
Superlites 15x7 12p 195/50r15

Except for the current setup have rubbed on the edge of the front spoiler.
As far as castor is it had a alignment check today and its running 3 degrees castor so not a lot

An adjustable sway bar should solve ur problems... Save cutting up the gaurds...

I run 17x7s on the front and they dont hit the gaurds at all...
Im using a 24mm whiteline adjustable bar

Mish- are the Noltecs adjustable for camber and castor or just camber? If memory serves Gdubs Noltecs were camber only...

Escy79 - adjustable sway bay can be used to ensure you do not have any tire/guard rubbing, but that gets rid of the benefit of having the adustability trying to get more castor. Unless youcan get some more at the strut tops.

You could always cut out the strut top hole to the same size as the MKI's and early MKII's and then you'll get more adjustment up top.
 
This is what I am planning to do.
 
Cheers,
 
Matt

Yes the strut tops are only canber adjustables. But I run them.on a 45degree so that I can get both camber and castor adjustment. Also I have slotted the strut top holes so I can get more castor again.

Matt. I have had the idea of changing strut tops sizes but found that doing so would not be easy without damaging engine bay paint and I'm not to confident that I would be able to get it exactly central.

Im leaning towards running a compression strut setup with will give me ample castor adjustment and also eliminate strut movement under braking. Also gaining a little bit of extra wheel base.

Or I can do all of the above.