$$$$$$$$$ if you want it done right body work trim and mechanicals plus parts... mine sat for 20 plus years dry and it still needed a lot of coin everything sounds easy :) depends what your happy with good luck Neil

'done right' is a tricky phrase since it is based so much on personal opinion. I'm interested in a car that runs well and is fun to drive, period modifications for mild motorsport allowed.

I have some mechanical ability, so I will be able to tackle many of the jobs. The basic list would seem to include:
 
Brakes: fluids, MC check, booster (may work but is rusty on outside), brake lines, pads/shoes.
Engine: carb rebuild kit, electronic ignition conversion, check leads, new plugs, oil, filters, check pumps, new belts, Rad recore, coolant, new exhaust modeled on old one
New tyres, check wheels, dampers, wheel bearings (had not expected that), windscreen, wipers, tank out and clean, replace fuel lines, check hard line, fuel filter, fuel pump, clutch cable check, battery, box of fuses, wheel alignment, tune, check seat belts
 
what else?
 

Paint job $$$$ whooligan your right mate

Paint is not a concern for years to come. I prefer a car that mechanically works as well as it can than a show pony.

Front end rubbers....sway bar mounts, tie rod ends, control arms and probably steering rack.  These things are notorious for front end vibrations.  Your strut tops might be stuffed.  Motomobil do nice exchange units, I just sent them some old escort ones and they were happy with that.  You don't need them up front, they give you money back when the exchanges are sent.
 
With rear bearings make sure you get the correct kit, some have wrong thickness retainers.  The bearings are a nightmare to get off since the retaining plate is in the way.
 
For cooling system check that the heater isn't leaking.
 
As for D port heads don't forget you will need a D port manifold as well.  You will probably get a better and cheaper result with a new cam.
 
Rear springs probably need re-setting.
 
Paint is not only about looks.  Chances are its old crazed acrylic which lets moisture through.  A properly done 2 pack paint job is also about rust prevention but for now at least get some polish on it.
 
Check the rear vent drains under the back window, they are usually rusted out and let water into the boot.  You need a mirror to check them, or shove a camera in there and take some pics.  These are pics of mine.

thanks, good points there, esp the heater core - I assume it's a bit of a bugger to get to?
Personally I am not a fan of polyurethane suspension bushes, but original quality rubber is not always available.
D-port heads - well some thinking went along the lines of...I assume a ULP conversion will be required for modern fuel. So I thought that I may as well K-line the valve guides at the same time, make sure the heads are flat and then if they're off the ports could do with a clean-up and their flow characteristics matched to a fast road cam and if you add all of this up the cost is getting close to a set of Burton d-port heads. Personally I'd prefer to keep the originals, but I've been asking around the forums and I cannot find comparative flow figures between the oval and D-port.

I used the superflex bushes for my sway bar, not as soft as rubber but better than nolathane.  Track control arms are available with rubber.  What is  unclear to me about D ports is whether or not the power increase is across the whole rev range or just at the top.  At least with a cam you can select a profile that gives the boost in the rev range you want.  Yes heater element is a bit of work.  The box has to come out from under the dash and then be pulled apart.

I've been asking for information about the D-port and oval port comparison. The D-port certainly followed conventional V-engine port philosophy of the time, but finding flow figures is difficult. I have found a comparative chart that shows the Essex vs other V6 engines such as the GTV, PRV etc and it does not flow well in comparison. The difficulty of course is knowing the accuracy of the data.
This is encouraging: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yfQktaBCUwI

About 10 hp difference - but with Kent fast road cam etc - make the old lump a bit more zappy. The fun with a v6 Capri isn't so much in a power increase for me but the fun of a torquey great looking little rear wheel drive u can throw around and wheel spin for a buzz - a v8 beater they arnt.
I'm waiting for janman (on this forum) to come thru with some juicy aluminium heads