My uncle had a chat with me a couple of months ago and asked me what he should do with his old car. In the garage, under the cardboard boxes and three layers of blankets was his dark metallic green 1970 V6 Capri GT, which had not moved for 15 years. He'd bought it new in 1970, still had the delivery documents and every rego document from new to the present day - it's never been un-registered or un-insured. He offered the car to me.
Now there is some rust at the bottom of the rear 1/4's and the exhaust has gone to god. The third set of tyres it has ever had have seen better days and the front door cards/seats are badly worn. Seats have been replaced with seats from a later model capri, with the original's in the rafters of the garage.
Recent efforts to get it to run have been fruitless and the rear brakes may be seized and the radiator needs to be recored.
Initial questions are simple enough: can you buy exhaust systems, brake boosters, shoes/drums/discs (if replacing discs worth splitting the calipers and running the Mk2/3 discs?), cables/hoses?
Sources for suspension rubbers and bilstein dampers/struts?
Will the carb (38DGAS?) need a rebuild/wash out? Any weaknesses in the fuel system itself with fatigue in hard lines etc?
Electronic dizzy conversion worth it?
Are the Australian delivered 1970V6 cars oval port or d-port?
 

exhaust can be made by muffler shop ..all parts can be sourced at a price ...and all of those thingsyou mentioned plus more need rebuilding or replacing eg new wheel bearings. Fuel tank cleaned water pump and belts and so on if you Want the car done properly Ian ..cheers Keri

What should he do with it?  Sell it to me of course!

rust at the bottom of the rear 1/4's
repair panels are available from the uk (Ex-pressed Steel Panels) and occasionally ebay.

exhaust has gone
a good exhaust shop should be able to remake using what's left of the original as a pattern.

tyres seen better days
you can still get a few 13" tyres in original size/style

front door cards/seats are badly worn
plenty of options locally for these, and also UK

rear brakes may be seized
most parts available to rebuild these

radiator needs to be recored.
plenty of options locally, some aftermarket alloy versions around

brake boosters
can be rebuilt for around $3-400 locally

shoes/drums/discs
everything except drums available (to my knowledge)

if replacing discs worth splitting the calipers and running the Mk2/3 discs?
would provide moderately better cooling, but may require engineers certification

cables/hoses?
all hoses available; cables you need to get from o/s and ebay

Sources for suspension rubbers
Superpro and other companies make nolathane bush kits; originals hunting on ebay

bilstein dampers/struts
available but struts 2nd hand if you need to replace

Will the carb (38DGAS?) need a rebuild/wash out?
probably

Any weaknesses in the fuel system itself with fatigue in hard lines etc?
worth checking over the entire fuel system, especially any part of it in the engine bay. There have been known to be fires.

Electronic dizzy conversion worth it?
only if driving regularly or modifying performance. you can get conversions that change your points in the original for reliability.

Are the Australian delivered 1970V6 cars oval port or d-port?
oval

Just give it to me, save you some hassle. ;^))

Cheers
Jamie

Nice to know that one owners are still out there after all this time.
 
Your biggest hassle will be  the fuel system.  Unleaded fuel goes off.  The last time mine sat for a long time the tank had to come out and I had to run steam through it for a whole day.  Take the pickup out and clean the strainer and check float bowl is ok.  Then  hope the lines are clean.  Try flushing with some fuel system cleaner before replacing the metal but replace the hose sections.  The carb will need a clean and kit.  Fuel pump is probably shot.
 
Forget electronic ignition but put a Petronix points replacement kit in, set and forget.
 
Ebay UK (log in to UK site) and motomobil.com (download their catalogue) will have just about everything you need.  Burtons are also good.  Veale used to carry hoses and some mounts and rare spares have rubber kits.  Tickover in the UK have suspension stuff.  Stay away from King Springs, they jump around in the seat.  There are nice dash facia repros on ebay aus as well as badges.
 
Consider having a sparky fit relays to head lights, heater and wipers.  Dash fires due to electrical over load and melted ignition connectors were common, but not so much a problem these days as not many people drive at night in the rain with the heater on.  But worth considering.
 
Pull the shifter apart, clean it and grease it up.  Hopefully its not too badly worn.
 
Get the cooling system pressure tested to make sure the manifold hasn't corroded.
 
Nice score.  Pictures????

Great find, you're a lucky man... My Cortina was much the same, low miles, one owner. It needed brakes, cooling, tyres, fuel lines and exhaust to make it roadworthy and safe. Make sure you box all the original parts, they may be cactus but still worth keeping for old times sake...
Cheers Drew...

Thanks for all of the help and esp Jamie for answering all of my questions. He did want to sell it originally, but Shannons etc were not very positive about it and I have no idea what would be a fair price.
I have a 12/14YO sons and they are very excited about it so it will be a matter of getting it running. It would also be nice to give it a bit more power as my experience with a Mk1 Capri was that another 50bhp would be nice.

Thanks Drew, I want to keep the family connection going. The original plates are still on the car and it would be a shame to loose them, but club reg would be the most affordable option.

Condition is everything, and Shannons probably weren't positive as the last one they sold went cheaply in my view..

http://www.shannons.com.a...gt-coupe/#.Vg9jPNRkmrU

That one should have gone to the low 20's, and it had been in the same family for a while (although not completely original).

Yours sounds like it needs a good freshen up to get to a similar standard, which always costs more than you think (hope).

Cheers
Jamie

PS: pics, pics, pics, pics, pics..........we love pics!

I saw that advert and I agree, it will take some effort and I estimate $5,000 to get my uncles car up to scratch. They also seem an expensive car to get extra power from.
According to forum talk the D-port heads are better in some way, but I have yet to see a comparative test tot he oval port heads - is there much in it?.