My first mistake was pulling the dash apart and not rebuilding immediately. Trying to remember how to re-assemble efficiently after 12 months wasn't going to be my "best friend". So easy to pull apart. Not so easy to put together to original specs.
Ensure Demister Vents are installed. Top Major Crash Pad must be fitted next, with 3 Main Nuts & Washers, but dont install A-Pillat screws till Side Ball Vents are in, and dont final-tighten the 3 Top Nuts holding Main Crash Pad until Side Ball Vents are fitted.
(Do not overtighten ANYTHING as damage will follow)One of the TIME ROBBING pitfalls is what comes natural: "While it's apart, lets ensure the Heater, Pedal Pivots, and Wiper Mechanisms gets attention for preventative maintenance" .......... and of course when you see rust spots that have started, ur not going to ignore them; more time to rectify and treat. One thing leads to another, etc etc as we all know.
Then the fun and games of not being able to buy a COMPLETE FRONT PARCEL SHELF. The TOP part made of Heavy Cardboard as per original was available. Making the Base Board out of Masonite was not too bad, but the rivets holding clips on old base board were a real pain to remove and save. Decided not to save all the other old rivets holding the old Upper Parcel shelf to baseboard, but use NEW Pop-Rivets to fix in place. Rubberised Carpet Underlay seemed perfect for insulation at the rear, held with same Upholstery Spray-on Glue, or Sika-Flex.
Before assembly of the 2 sections, I fitted the base board with black Nylex Fabric-backed Vinyl I had in stock for more years than I care to recall ! (Still perfect)! I used Upholstery Spray-on Glue. Huge improvement over the oem which was "paint". I saved the original Base Board Front Rail as it was still very good and serviceable. Attached with small nuts/bolts/shakeproof washers. Cut a hole in the Carpet underlay above the Speaker Grille, and refitted cut-out back until it needs to be removed if speaker is to go there eventually.
Found it best to fit all wires and Oil Line with the POD unsupported by the heavy cumbersome Instrument Surround cum Crash Pad. My big hands were a huge disadvantage here as the wires are not long enough and 10 tons of patience is needed with old sockets falling out easily soon after refitting as theres very little room to get your fingers in there.
All 4 ducting pipes washed out and dried before fitting. Then install Radio, Heater Controls and Rocker Switches. Once Instrument Pod is installed, tighten OIL LINE which is easily done any time
(DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN; or expect damage)
Next, the dreaded minor Crash Pad cum Inst Surround. Wow! 20 tons of patience to try and balance it and marry it up to the Inst. Pod, and then juggle the 2 while you kid yourself that inserting the 4 screws from BEHIND, is a walk in the park. It's not. Not to put too fine a point. After getting all 4 screws in (and I wont say how long!), you definitely will need several stiff double Bundies to soothe the nerves ! After sobering up (next day!), place a support piece between the Lowered Steer Col thats resting on the seat, and the Cluster/Crashpad assembly. Then try your best to get all the light sockets back in, that fell out the day before, while you were trying to get as described above, together. When youve done that, repeat Double-Bundies Intake, and walk away until youre sober the next day ! Cannot tell you how many owners Ive known, that have "lost it" and stupidly "taken it out" on the car resulting in more expensive damage to repair ! They eventually learn the hard way to get it done professionally as at the very least; its cheaper !
After all the blood, sweat and tears, and everything works so you dont have to re-work as I was lucky enough, it's a very satisfying feeling to see everything looking Brand New in your Minor and Major Crash Pads !
Must re-chrome Swich Surrounds one day, and maybe buy a NEW Instrument Fascia !