Whooligans idea of fitting a new cable is a great starting point.

OK. Cable is new( sorry tank fuel old). Throw out bearing holder modified cortina which is a very common modification and doesn't affect travel of pedal. Bent pedal... Over much doubt it .There is only one spot for bolt that stops pedal for coming out further. Pedal sits level with brake pedal which us wrong. So could the pedal be bent just that 3/4" . Still wouldn't shorten the clutch grabbing distance by 70mm surely...
What's the chances of a escort pedal been used instead of an Capri? 

ronsmallford
Hi Matt,     Just been reading about clutch adjustment in the factory manual (as you do haha). Anyway point is there is no secret tricks to it, just fit cable and adjust locknuts to give about 3.5mm of clearance, this will give 12 to 19mm freeplay at the pedal.
It looks like you will need to detail the pedal box area same as you have done with the clutch arm, because some travel looks like it is being lost somewhere.
Has the cross pin at the top of the cable worn into the pedal arm?It was now filed so pin sit square.
Is there any slop at the fulcrum bush?There is a little slop but not overtop.
Is the carpet, underlay and floor mat a bit on the thick side?Have removed all underlay tried with carpet pulled up. 
Is the pedal arm bent?Doesn't look it.
Just little problems can add up to a big one and is hard to diagnose.

hotboostgt
OK. Cable is new( sorry tank fuel old). Throw out bearing holder modified cortina which is a very common modification and doesn't affect travel of pedal. Bent pedal... Over much doubt it .There is only one spot for bolt that stops pedal for coming out further. Pedal sits level with brake pedal which us wrong. So could the pedal be bent just that 3/4" . Still wouldn't shorten the clutch grabbing distance by 70mm surely...
What's the chances of a escort pedal been used instead of an Capri? 

The clutch pedal stop is meant to be a pin not a bolt so if the pedal is stopping on a bolt head which is larger than the pin, by the time this gets multiplyed down to the bottom of the pedal i reckon thats worth about 20mm right there.
Ill just check to see if i have the proper pin spare.

Nope cant find a spare pin, never mind just get that bolt out and grind the head off it, that should be a step in the right direction.

I'm not a Capri man, I'm an Escort man, but based on the symptoms you are describing, I would put it down to 2 possible scenarios, one of which has already been discussed, that being a bent clutch fork causing the problems described.
 
The other scenario relates to the pivot point end of the clutch fork, the opposite end to where the clutch cable connects. In an escort, I believe with Pinto motors and not Kent, there is a steel block located between the fork and the bell housing in order to correctly place the thrust bearing assembly in position relative to the fingers on the pressure plate, as well as insuring correct geometry in the clutch fork movement and also places cable adjustment within a usable range as designed from factory, meaning the adjusting nuts should sit somewhere close to the middle position, and not over extended, leaving you with little room for adjustment. If this block between the fork and bell housing is missing then you end up with the symptoms you describe. Along with the steel block, a special bolt is also used in order to hold the clutch fork and block assembly in place.
 
Just a thought. It may not apply to your Capri.
 
Chuff

Nope no head looks factory pin.
 
Where the pivot fork bolts to bell housing has been machined square and a correct height spacer made to give the right depth back in the bell housing.
All good suggestions guys but John and myself have done all  the obvious ones. That's why this post has been dug up..
Its all new , machined or modified new.Tried with different throw fork same problem. I tell ya its not making sense.
Keep thinking guys cheers

Sorry to chirp in guys but from the start inside the car you have full travel of the clutch pedal? And in the box your getting full travel negating a couple of mm deflection if bent but you are saying your missing 70mm of travel if that's correct it must be the wrong clutch cable not giving you your adjustment.
Try applying the clutch pedal and tell us how much movement you get on the other side of the cable as that is your travel. Then work out how much travel your fork needs to work ( not much) and make sure you have the tolerance to make it work. I reckon it's a cable issue not allowing the adjustment.
Also I didn't know of a difference in flywheels between the Dport and oval port I will need to check on that.

Cable new factory Ford.There is heaps of thread on both side of bell housing.It doesn't matter if cable tight or loose no different . We are testing less gearbox just the bell housing thowout etc. One person in car and with a torch some underneath looking thru arm to tell exactly when clutch us gripping . 2" from the floor it grips.
FYI . 6bolt holes line the 3 studs 1.3mm difference. Trust me.
Argued with exeedy over it they don't care because capri clutches aren't a big seller.So went to where I bought an exeedy from with my dport flywheel and my old competition clutch slammed on his desk and said now do you believe me!
He said do u have ur credit card handy for refund ..geez thanks

Are you saying that the clutch starts to disengage when you have the pedal only 2" from the floor, thereby only giving you 2" of travel?
 
If so, grab the clutch cable outer on the engine side where the cable thread goes through the bell housing and pull the cable outer as far as you can towards the front of the car until it stops. As you do this the clutch pedal in the car will lift but that is what you want, and there will be resistance as there should be a spring between the clutch pedal & pedal box. Once you have pulled the cable all the way, are you able to position the 2 nuts for adjustment and leave a gap of around 2-3 mm between the nut and bell housing? If so, then lock them in place and try your pedal travel. If you can't lock the nuts as you've run out of thread on the end of the cable, then you must have the wrong cable, as the outer is too short. Similar scenario occurs if you smash & remove the plastic/rubber insulator on the cable where it goes through the firewall. Cable outer length becomes shorter and limits adjustment.
 
I don't see how it can be anything else.