Hey guys, 
 
Wondering if theres anything blatantly wrong i've missed when trying to start my 2.0L...
 
I've finally got the new fuel pump installed and going, the fuel filter is full...

 
I've checked my dizzy, and the rotor button is lining up with the distributor body at TDC, the leads are on in 1-3-4-2 in a clockwise direction as the rotor turns... I have taken the high tension lead off no1 cylinder when cranking and tested for spark...
 
I don't think i'm missing anything fundamental here? I've charged the battery up before cranking and put a lid of petrol down each throat of the carb but still nothing...
 
The only thing i'm thinking is that its maybe something i'm missing on the carb? There seems to be a ground that i've linked up, should there be any positive connection going to the carb, or is it strictly mechanical? There are a number of vacuum pipes that aren't going anywhere, should these all be plugged up??? Its a 34ADM weber off a ford falcon....

 
Thanks in advance

Have you opened the throttle to let the fuel into the manifold?? try a few capfuls, it should fire quite abruptly once there's fuel in there. If not check the spark again with a spark plug earthed to the motor, try with all 4 leads.

need to power up the idle shut off solinoid

Similar thing happened to me a year ago - think it was something to do with static timing - just because its at TDC doesn't mean its at top of compression stroke.  Turn crank another 360 and check dizzy settings again.  Or turn dizzy cap 180 degrees.
 
Hmm actually both those don't sound right.  Can't remember but it was something like that...
 
/unhelpful post

Here's a link to a rebuild manual for the carby.  http://gallery.oldholden.com/Holden3Litre/Weber34ADMWorkshop/Weber+34ADM+-+Gregorys+-+Page+11.jpg.html
 
It may tell you where everything get's hooked up to.
 
Have you got a standard carby to throw on it?
 
Cheers,
 
Matt

Blatantly obvious - but that is not an Escort Weber (Looks a little like a Falcon 34/34).... Do you have the fuel in and fuel out connections to the carb the right way round...
 
1 - Check you cam timing is not 180 out... (Should backfire through carb if it is and you have spark but it will not run...) If it is OK adjust static timing to 6 BTDC.
2 - Check you have spark.....
3 - Check you have fuel.... (Electric pump much easier, but mechanical will eventually pump through too)
4 - Check you have the the leads the right way round on the starter as if round the wrong way will fire, but die when you release the key...
5 - If all the above OK then you should get it to at least cough.  Get a Mate to spray "Aerostart" or "Start You ****" down the carby when cranking... This will encourage more fuel to flow through and you should then be able to get it to run and tune it with the engine running...
 
Think fuel and spark  .......  fuel and spark ....... fuel and spark and if you have both you have fire.....

hey guys thanks for the replies -
ratta tat tat: yep i've tried the fuel and opened the throttle when starting, still nothing. I'll check all 4 leads for spark
 
thanks james, will power up the solenoid 
 
avon - i think i get what you're trying to say
 
matt - thanks for that link, i do have a diagram showing what most things are, but what they link up to is another story lol. i've got the std weber in the shed but shes looking pretty tired and from memory doesn't fit on the studs on the manifold because of this falcon weber thats been thrown on...
 
thanks nick - yes i believe the fuel inlet is in correctly, outlet not evident.. what do you mean when you say cam timing 180 out? 
 
thanks heaps guys!
 
 

Check this link out - http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Weber_Conversion
 
It shows what goes where.  Looking at your hoses it looks like you may have the fuel coming into the return outlet.
 
Matt

As it has been said take a plug out, put the lead on it and earth it to the motor. If no visible spark then work back from there on the electrical system. With fuel down the carby you should at least get a fart or cough if things are roughly set ok.
It does sound like no or very weak spark.
If no spark confirm on another plug to be sure the first one is not dodgy.
Then pop off the dizzy cap, wind over to make sure things look ok there. I had one once that the graphite button in the top of the cap was broken off, took me ages and lots of hair pulling to find that one.
Make sure you have power at the coil on cranking and at ignition key switch position. there are two power circuits from memory, a 12v hit to the coil on cranking and then reduces through a resistance wire on the ignition switch position. 
 
Good luck.
Let us know how you go.
 

Right I've remembered what I'm trying to say!
 
The dizzy does one turn per 2 turns of the crank.  So what can happen is that you set the rotor to #1 spark plug, and the #1 cylinder to TDC.  All looks good.  But its the TDC of the exhaust stroke!  So what can happen is that fuel can ignite in the exhaust pipe as that can be slightly open depending on the timing settings.  Are you getting 'whoofing' noises from fuel burning in exhaust.?
 
Solution is to turn the engine back to TDC, and re-check the dizzy rotor position.  If it looks ok, then turn it further on until its at TDC again.  Then check rotor position, it should be wrong.  Re-seat dizzy so rotor is back to #1.  Fixed.
 
Or the bushmans solution is do none of the above - just turn dizzy cap 180 deg and that re-aligns it all.  But then your #1 rotor position is in a funny place.
 
At the time it took me quite a while to figure it all out! 
(Engine expert guys please go over this and correct if I've made errors here!)