On the right side of the v6 clutch and speedo cables will get burnt on the exhaust. Im wondering whether the factory fitted ties to keep these out of the way. A couple of zip ties seems the only way.
On the left side the metal pipe joining to the ruber piping is the oil feed to the oil guage in its factory position.

Yeah Ron thats the one oil pressure line to guage and I have also tied up the speedo cable with cable tie as it does sit very close to the pipes but luckily I dont have to worry about the clutch cable as it is an factory auto.

Thanks PJ the colour does make it stand out like a dunny in the desert.

Well just in from the shed & we are inching closer to having it ready for rego on Friday morning just need to put on the door trims adjust the handbrake up, plumb up the window washer bottle, finish off the bonnet clips, fit sunvisors oh & of course take it for a little test drive to see if it all feels ok.

I picked up my blown Xp Falcon this afternoon from my boss's house after he put in a new wiring harness & damn it was good to have a drive in & now I realy cant wait to get the Capri out for a spin around the block.

Kev.

As the saying goes 1 step forward 2 steps back, after taking the Capri for a test drive around the block we have noticed an issue with the rotors rubbing the backing plate, new wheel bearings, vented rotors & calipers but I did not know I had to delete the backing plate for the vented rotors, now all sorted but had to reschedule the Dept of transport inspection until next week now.
On a brighter note now we dont have a horrible scraping sound & the car has had several trips around the block & to the servo for fuel & it seems to be settling in ok but I still need to sort out a good tune up for the engine but at least it is running & driving & I think I will be removing the front sway bar tommorrow & re-space the lower control arms as when reversing the front tyres just scraps the front panel when on a hard lock but apart from that it drives very well.

On Sunday I removed the front sway bar & re-spaced the lower control arm further back of which has solved the issue of the front tyre scraping when on a tight lock reversing.
Still not that happy with the brakes as it seems to have too much pedal travel & I think the power booster may have a crack in it as the engine idle not consistant so I think it is sucking in air but I will test the theory after work.
Hopefully we will be driving it down to Dept of Transport tommorrow for a go at licencing it.

Well it is now licenced but not finished still need to cut & polish the bonnet, reset the front springs 50 or 60mm, re-align boot lid, fit spotlights but for now it will tools down & just go cruising in it for a few weeks to get some kms on the clock after the Hotrod & Street Machine Spectacular at Burswood this weekend.

Hey Kev,

Congrats on getting that baby on the road , awesome pics

I know theirs a million forums of info, about wetsanding , buffing, poishing but...

Since we are using the same paint ( you use clear over base protec i think you said ) could you give me a quick rundown on the procedure ( pads compound paper etc ) you use for those stunning results?

my arsenal includes a variable speed buffer that needs to be chucked in the bin and two different air run da sanders with foam/ wool options

That would be a great leg up for jonny

Thanks Jonny it has been great being able to take it out for a cruise.
We let the paint sit for 5 days after last clear coat goes on & then inspect how much de-nibbing needs to be done (crap in the clear runs etc.) I have a special tunsten carbide tool for this about $130.00 from memory of which is held in a magnetic holder & sits flat onto the painted panel & slowly worked over the run or junk in the paint to cut it off but all care must be taken.
The we use a 1500 wet & dry paper with a bucket of water first to go over the whole car by hand & you must keep you hand flat & with minimal hand pressure, wash the after this & go over with 2000 wet & dry & new bucket of water, some people prefer to use a soft block but I do not. Also use low tack tape on egdes that need fair bit a of work so you dont sand threw.
Wash the car with a little dish washing liquid & warm water & dry car & re-inspect, basically we aim take off 1 coat of clear to may it flat as possible.
We use a proper electric variable speed buff with a 3M buffing sponge & a good 2 pack compound with a spray bottle of water to keep the panel cool when buffed ( I can not remember the compound name but we still have to cut & buff the bonnet yet so I will get the name on the weekend), also use low tack tape on edges that you may catch when buffing as it only takes a second to buff threw.
Jonny I am sure the pro's do this a better way but for ameteurs we seem to get fair results for the effort put in & that works for us.

Kev.

Nice work Kev!

On the paint course I just did they recommend using a hard block and were always stressing never sand with just your hand. Block should be held so that its facing along the panel length and then move diagonally to criss cross the panel. Never in circles.

I just finsihed the vintage car restoration course and was amazed to hear that all these hot rods with mega $$$ paint jobs are fully bogged. I thought bog was the restorers enemy. Turns out its their best friend. They completley bog and sand every panel twice to get every little ripple out. Now I know why the top jobs are so expensive.

Have not done an update in a fair while as we have just been enjoying the car & not working on it untill this weekend so I thought I would fit the spotties for the WA All Ford Day.
It was an great day out with freinds & family & the weather was awesome, I also met up with Owen (V4CAPMAD) of which was great good to put a face to a name & I hope you enjoyed your first WA All Ford Day.
I have also included a photo from the WA AFD with my wife Wendy & son Ben & the Capri of course holding the Best Small Ford trophy of which was a very pleasant surprise.
 
Kev.


nice prefacelift model there .
am restoreing  a facelift model  .has been lieing for over 24 years .rot rot .