believe it or not this happened.
 

 
Car was tuned last wednesday night after a few more issues where sorted, car was pulling to 6300rpm then hitting some kind of limiter (even though none were set in the ecu). it ended up being the air gap on the crank angle sensor was set too close and at the high engine rpm the sensor became less accurate and didnt reference the no.1 double tooth on the chopper wheel.
 
More problems were stumbled upon once it came time to turn up the boost. It was found that the engine needs stronger valve springs as the valves begin to float at high rpm with anything over 14psi. The more boost that was fed into the engine the less power it made.
 
So we settled for 16psi with a little float up top and the car made 197.3 rwkw. alot less than expected as previous dyno sheets showed more power but was due to a fualty module in the dyno that 2 days after initial tune packed it in. But let me tell u close to 200rwkw in a sub tonne car on 175mm wide tyres is scary, then add the horrible melbourne weather, you get the jist.
 
 

this is what its all about
    click on picture to view the video 

Top result! 160hp on 175 is fun enough, would love a go on 200 rwkw!

Great power from a sub 2lt engine. Have you plans for new valve springs then? Sounds like good investigation work to find the chopper wheel issue.

Shaun.

Good stuff Mish! Would definitely keep you on the ball driving that in the wet.
 
Rhys

Hey Mate,
 
What are the specs on your front suspension?
 
I have just pulled my stock set up out to install the capri legs with a coilover conversion and I am envisaging I may have issues like you.
 
I have adjustable struts tops and TCA's too and have been told that the TCA's are just to even up both sides and you use the strut tops for the camber adjustment.  This should (hopefully) avoid the issue of the steering arms being too long.
 
Also what sway bar did you use?  K-Mac?  
 
Car looked awesome last weekend.  You were a pretty close second to that dude in the orange Rally Pack in my opinion. 
 
Cheers,
 
Matt
 

shaun,
now that ive finally driven the car in the dry 200kw is pretty damn silly, i do have plans to fit some stiffer valve springs and wind up the boost to make the most of the parts i have in the engine, because at the moment they arnt really working to the best of there ability.
 
rhys,
driving in the wet definitely shows the car needs a little more steering lock, but its actually not too bad to drive because it isnt pulling speed whilst wheel spinning like it is in the dry. it actually gets scarier the bigger tyre you put on it.

matt,
 
at the moment the specs are as follows
 
Toe is set to 0mm
Camber is out to -3.5 degrees
Castor is almost matching at 5.75 degrees
 
the reason i use the lower control arms for most of my camber adjustment is that i want as much castor as possible, so i have set up my strut tops on a 45degree angle to get both camber and castor adjustment, you just cant get too much of both, hence the adjustment from the lower arms to make up for it.
 

 
the sway bar i have is an old 24mm pedders item, it was supplied with thick (20mm) spacers to be used, but i binned those and ran it with nothing. bad idea. wheels sat too far forward in the gaurd so i spaced it about 10mm with 3 washers.
 
Hope this helps

Excellent stuff,
 
I have a set of K-Mac adjustables so I can hopefully use them to get max camber / caster whilst avoiding the issues you have gone through though something tells me I won't.
 
Cheers
 
Matt

matt you shouldnt run into any problems if you keep the numbers conservative, i ran mine at 1.5degree neg camber and around 2.75 degrees castor for ages with a pretty stock setup.

Cheers Mate,
 
I am after as much caster as possible as this seems the way to go and hopefully around the 3 deg camber but we'll just see what happens.
 
Cheers,
 
Matt